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Unmistakable and outstanding, its jutting east face is obvious from anywhere in Boulder, and the beautiful, solid rock meets or exceeds your high expectations. A 100-foot-high "CU" was painted on since the 1940s. Since camouflaged by more paint, you can still see the faint outline. Of course, when you're on the east face, it's obvious when you get to this section of the rock, especially because it's a smeary section of rock with no hand holds, mostly friction foot moves. Enjoy it when you can: the Parks department closes this and most of the rocks around it, due to raptor nesting concerns (see below).
Note, the Ghetto is actually part of the Third Flatiron.
From the ranger cottage at the Chautauqua Park trailhead (Baseline Rd.), follow the paved Bluebell Road south to the Bluebell Shelter. From the shelter follow the Royal Arch trail south to the junction of the Second-Third Flatiron Trail. Follow this trail west to the clearly marked Third Flatiron Trail. The trail ends at the start of the Third Flatiron standard east face climbing route. The Third Flatiron Descent Trail starts in the saddle to the west of the summit of the Third Flatiron. The trail begins to descend north, then east, down through a talus field to end at the Third Flatiron Trail, a few hundred yards north of the start to the standard east face climbing route.
Per mark felber: for rappel, there are chains at the south end of the summit, for a 45' rap to the South Bowl. Use the chains here for a 50' rap to Friday's Folly Ledge (or just go from the summit to Friday's Folly ledge in one shot with a 60m or longer rope). On reaching Friday's Folly Ledge, you'll see a great big eyebolt and a sign placed by BOSMP, warning you that the rappel from the eyebolt is 140' and directing you to a much shorter rappel(72') from good chains to climber's left/west. The shorter rappel lands you right on the descent trail. Taking the longer rappel means you have to 3rd class up to the landing of the short rappel to reach the descent trail, or descend 1911 Gully.
FWIW, there is a low fifth class downclimb for those without a rope.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Third World Zone |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R Trad 8 pitches | ||
| ● East Face Left |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 9 pitches | ||
| ● Greenman's Crack |
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad, TR | ||
| ● East Face (Standard) |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 8 pitches | ||
| ● Extra Point |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 5 pitches | ||
| ● College Drop Out aka East F… |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 6 pitches | ||
| ● Ph.D. Roof |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches | ||
| ● Negative Space (P1) |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Negative Space |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport 2 pitches | ||
| ● Third Kingdom/Papillion |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad | ||
| ● Northwest Passage |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Exit Through The Gift Shop |
|
V0 4 Boulder | ||
| ● Misled Youth |
|
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Direct West Face a/k/a West… |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad | ||
| ● West Face [3rd Flatrion] |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad | ||
| ● Saturday's Folly |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Friday's Folly Direct |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR | ||
| ● Feathers and Stone |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Friday's Folly |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | ||
| ● West Door |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Pentaprance |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Waiting For Columbus |
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport | ||
| ● Falcon's Fracture |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Dog's Head Cutoff |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R Trad | ||
| ● Super Woo |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Winky Woo |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R Trad | ||
| ● Southwest Chimney |
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches | ||
| ● Flailure (Is Not an Option) |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad | ||
| ● Wrongs of Fall |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● Rite Of Spring |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches | ||
| ● South Chimney |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad | ||
| ● Inner Sanctum |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad | ||
| ● Thin Crack |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad | ||
| ● More Mellow |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | ||
| ● Pile In the Sky |
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Fail Safe |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad | ||
| ● Doctor Merkwurdigliebe |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Funny Games |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R Trad, TR | ||
| ● Holier than Thou |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Panda Rigolo |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Pandammic |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Panda Scat |
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR | ||
| ● 1911 Gully |
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad | ||
| ● The Third Millennium |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Shoyu State |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Blazing Biners |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport | ||
| ● Sayonara |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport | ||
| ● Unnamed (formerly entered a… |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR |
Cheers! Aug 13, 2001
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
I am probably A) misinformed, B) naive, C) selfish, D) all of above.
Does put thoughts in my head about climbing these routes with a BB gun.... Jul 30, 2003
On the other hand if there were no closure and people go stomping through nest making scrambled eggs, then we deserve any closure we bring upon ourselves.
Furthermore, are these birds not carrying West Nile Virus...Hitchcock was right, it's either them or us! Jul 30, 2003
Boulder, CO
1) These aren't just any "birds". We're not talking about swallows or pigeons, here... we're talking about raptors, most likely peregrines. They're pretty amazing creatures if you take the time to learn about them.
2) Think a little bit about where you live. There are roughly 10,000 routes within a 2 hour radius of Boulder. It's inconvenient, but I'm willing to avoid a hundred or so routes for parts of the year if it means the raptors can nest. Raptors prefer classic cliffs over chosspiles for the same reasons we do as climbers: exposure, interesting features, and commanding views.
3) As climbers we are expected to have at least some modicum of resposibility for stewardship of the cliffs and surrounding lands. Attitudes such as AC's and Darren's which show little respect for these habitats, defeats one of the principle arguments used by climbers to maintain access to certain areas. It's very difficult to negotiate with land managers when we're viewed as narcissitic land-users, not much different from snow-mobilers or jet-skiers.
Agreed that the Mickey Mouse and Ralston Buttes closures are ridiculous, and that BOS and JeffcoOS are making a mockery of wildlife closures in these cases. But you shouldn't indict the entire idea of allowing raptors to nest on "our taxpayer funded" cliffs, because of BOS. Jul 31, 2003
Lyons, CO
We did the third early this morning and could see the chicks on the southern flank of the rock. Pretty cool. Although there is some politics involved in some of the closures, many are legit and should be respected. I agree with Joe Collins; there are so many other great routes along the front range that the climbing community should not throw a hissy because they have to wait to climb on something.
I also agree that the cliffs should be closely monitored so unnecessary closures are minimized, but given the fact that most of Boulder Canyon was opened early this year is a clue that there is an effort being made; not to mention they *could* have extended the 3rd closure.
Snide comments about BOS and posts about toting guns up climbs don't do anything to progress our relationship with park officials. I wouldn't be surprised if BOS checks out what we have to say on this site, especially when they catch wind of us griping about them. Aug 1, 2003
I have worked as a volunteer raptor monitor for BOS (at the Matron), and I would recommend it to anybody. I had to commit two days per month on a sign- up sheet. You get to enter the closure area and watch the birds. They are incredible. BOS trains you to fill out the monitoring forms, you write down all observed activity; you get to watch the birds grow up and leave the nest. The volunteer monitoring program is very well organized, a lot of people are participating, and I found it to be a very positive experience.
Everyone needs their space. I talked to Casey B yesterday (8/3) and he said the Third was an absolute zoo, which it is every weekend it's open. Anymore, we are crowding each other off the cliffs, let alone the wildlife. The birds, especially the raptors, are the freest beings on the planet. It is our duty, as fellow freedom seekers, to be their stewards, and give them the room they deserve. Aug 4, 2003
This statement just goes to demonstrate how out of control BOS is. If we can't freely exercise our constitutionally protected right to free speech without fear of retribution, then what's left?
Let's not forget--Our tax dollars purchase open space and our tax dollars pay these people's salaries. If we don't think BOS is being managed properly, it is our right to say so. We are entitled to our opinions. Do not fear speaking your mind. BOS can and should be held accountable for their management (and mismanagement) of our land. Aug 18, 2003
Lyons, CO
"This statement just goes to demonstrate how out of control BOS is. If we can't freely exercise our constitutionally protected right to free speech without fear of retribution, then what's left?"
How does *my* statement demonstrate that BOS is out of control? I'm not stating that it is or isn't, but I fail to see the correlation. It's not my desire to silence anyone with an opposition to a government run agency. Go back and re-read some of your comments, coward. You sound like an uninformed cry-baby trying to incite a reaction out of others. Pine Pigs? And some lame post on a climbing website about your misguided suspicion of govt. trickery? This is your idea of productive civil disobedience?
...And:
"Do not fear speaking your mind."
Right. But be very afraid to attach your name to such a passionate position. Now THAT'S ironic. Aug 19, 2003
Lakewood, CO
My best time bottom to top is 14 minutes, and I nearly passed out
Some other Third trivia, from Ament's High Over Boulder:
Ist roller skate ascent: Dale Johnson (no date)1st no- hands ascent: Baker Armstrong (no date)
East Face eye bolts placed by Ev and Carleton Long in 1931.
The West side rappel anchor bolts were replaced just recently-- 01, 02, 03? Apr 5, 2004
When rappelling, make sure first and foremost that you have a good anchor. I prefer a large pine or oak tree. Then, look for a backup, too. How much is your life worth? Never trust your life to just one thing, or anything you don't know the history of. Therefore, you should ALWAYS put your own sling onto an anchor. You don't know the history of the existing slings, no matter the quantity. If they are chains, it's best to still add a sling, though making it slightly longer (thus, essentially, a backup to the chains) than the chains is acceptable. The reason, again, is that you don't know the history of the chain links, nor do you know how many times ropes have pulled through them. I've seen links at the end of chains that are wafer thin (like at Smith Rocks), yet people blindly rappel off of them. Good way to take the plunge, my friend. Add a sling.
Now that there's no weak link in the anchor, turn to yourself and your partner. Actually, this begins before the climb. Who is your partner? If safety is not their number one priority, forget it_you're better off soloing, as you know yourself better than you know them.
In terms of a backup, the best one is the one you know best_your other hand. Some people hold on with only one hand, sometimes even loosely. Use two hands, firmly. You know where your hand has been. You don't know the history of the webbing for a friction knot backup, so give friction with your hand instead. And, especially if you add more friction by using a second 'biner, it's almost impossible to lose control when you're gripping with two hands.
Finally, the knot. Double fisherman's is the most secure, by far, but a triple is safer. Don't even THINK about using the overhand, aka "Euro Death Knot." They call it that for a reason. Any idea of how many people die climbing in the Alps every year? It's a lot. So don't use that knot.
I hope this helps, sorry it was a bit long-winded but death never takes a break, so safety must always stay awake. That's my motto. Sep 1, 2004
Boulder, CO
I strongly disagree. The overhand knot to tie two rappel ropes together is by far the best alternative. Many rappel epics are caused by having the knot get stuck trying to pull it over an edge. The overhand is far better than the double/triple fisherman's in that respect. Tied properly (12-inch tails, cinched down and dressed),the overhand is totally safe as a rappel knot. I won't use anything else when tieing two ropes together for a rappel. You shouldn't either.
Note: the flat overhand is a safe knot for tieing two ropes together for a rappel, but the flat figure eight is not. Make sure you use and overhand, and not a figure eight!
Some comments from Clyde Soles, climbing equipment guru:
"The overhand is the best knot of all for tying two rappel ropes together at the top. I leave tails at least 9" long and snug the knot as tight as I can. Your so-called standard knot is much more prone to jamming in cracks, is a pain in the ass to untie, and certainly doesn't need a backup. BTW I had an 11 mm and 7 mm (worstlikely case) connected with an overhand and they finally broke at about 1800 lbs. without slipping." Sep 1, 2004
Anyway, if not, I'll add somethings. As far as leaving new tat every where you go, especially when rapping off the top of the 3rd from a giant oak tree, remember to remove some of the old junk you are replacing. We don't need everybody adding wadds and wadds of tat at every rap station. Another good option is to gain the experience and knowledge to reasonably assess fixed gear/ slings. Fixed chains come to mind with this. Instead of adding webbing to every set of chains you see, consider looking at them first to see if they are sound and not almost worn through, etc.
As far as not knowing the history of YOUR sling for a firction knot back-up on rappel, well I don't know what to say about this... it is your sling right? Your two hand advice isn't bad, but won't help you if you become unconscious for some reason. Personally, I rarely use a friction knot back-up, but it seems to me that someone could use two hands AND the friction knot. However, it does raise the question, "Do you really know where your hands have been? a complete history?" What you really need is a third, prehensile appendage, that's the ticket. Sep 2, 2004
Cincinnati, OH
ref: rockandice.com/safety_techn… Sep 14, 2004
Boulder, CO
Choctaw, OK
She's open y'all. Rip it up. George Bell told me last night, so we went out for an early morning mission. The descent trail through the talus had a pair of poison ivy leaves that were broked from their vines, perhaps indicating someone's travel into the area. We were at Chautauqua Visitor Center at 0600 and didn't see ANYONE, so perhaps someone made an early-season illegal ascent??? Hope not. The leaves looked like they were broken off yesterday. Maybe it was someone monitoring the falcons, hence the newly appointed opening. Hope so. That means we had the first climb of the season! Have fun! Thanks again George.
Proof: ci.boulder.co.us/openspace/…
~Wm Jul 14, 2005
The small, closed-mouth, group who have climbed in these caverns belong to a secret fellowship more exclusive than Opus Dei.
Having been excommunicated from this privileged sect by letting the cat out of the bag, I now am free to spew directions and end the secret fellowships reign of power/knowledge.
Three quarters of the way up the east face of The Third Flatiron is a feature called The Gash. The Gash is a deep chimney that cleaves a vertical gash from about three quarters height to a point between The Dog's Head and the true summit.
Approximately two thirds of the way up The Gash is a large round chockstone on the right side. By pushing the boulder towards the right, a small aperture is acquired on the left. Squeeze through this confine wearing a small pack loaded with flashlights. Make sure you have several active light sources and back-ups. Light equals life within the labyrinthine recesses of The Third.
Once past the entrance chockstone, simply push the perfectly balanced rock back into place. It will now appear that you are cliffed on a narrow ledge above a bottomless void.
Careful inspection will unveil an ancient fat rope fixed to the wall on the west side of the ledge. Hand over hand yourself down the rope until you feel flat footing beneath you.
Find a low passage to the north and squeeze through it. Once through the low passage, there are two halls. The one to the left dead ends in about two hundred feet. Take the hall on the right side. Follow this down and right, being careful not to bonk your head on stalactites. Soon your footsteps will echo off the ceiling of the grand chamber and you have arrived at the final destination.
A powerful light source will reveal to true magnitude of this spectacular bouldering chamber. Thousands of top quality problems lie in wait. The landings are flat and the air temperature is at a constant fifty-five degrees. It is always a perfect temperature for climbing, and it never rains or snows in there.
I may suffer severe consequences for divulging this long held secret, but I do not regret finally sharing, what may be, the world's greatest bouldering area with my fellow climbers. Dec 1, 2006
Longmont, CO
Boulder, CO
boulder, co
Boulder, CO
Denver, CO
As of last week, the poison ivy plants were about 3' tall in some areas, and the patches were so large and vast that it was simply unavoidable. Sharp End's guidebook makes no mention of this, so hopefully I'll save someone else the trouble of going through what me and my partner went through and are still going through. Aug 24, 2014
Please visit the FCC site flatironsclimbing.org/curre… to review the applications and leave any comments you have. The public vote and meeting is set for 6:30 pm on Sept. 2 (Wednesday) at The Spot in Boulder, Colorado. Aug 4, 2015
Boulder, CO
The Third Flatiron has hit the big time: the descent trail has a Pokestop! Aug 16, 2016
Please feel free to post any comments you have on the application. The public meeting will be held at the Spot on Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 6:30, and everyone is welcome to join and vote there. May 2, 2017
Albuquerque N.M.
Westminster, Colorado
denverpost.com/2018/02/22/c… Mar 1, 2018
Please visit the FCC site flatironsclimbing.org/curre… after May 1 to review the applications and leave any comments you have. The public vote and meeting is at 6:30 pm on June 1 (Friday) at The Spot in Boulder, Colorado. Apr 29, 2018
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
I'd just downclimb it, it's like 5.2. Jul 30, 2019
Denver, CO
Broomfield, CO
Boulder, CO
You could rap off the back (west) with a 2x 70m, but the anchors aren't set to work that way, so more rope shenanigans are again bound to happen. If there's a party on top, you could ask them to untie your ropes and drop them down (this would work with a 1x 70m if you want to rap on a single line), but you'd still be using the anchors, so only do it if no one else is.
You could do rap #1, go through Fat Man's Frenzy, and find a lone bolt that you could then rap off of but again - guess we're I've seen someone fight with a stuck rope?
I'm almost positive you can also do rap #2 with a 2x70m straight down, past beyond the landing for rap #2, and (heading right next to the Friday's Folly anchor), with a smaller chance of getting your rope stuck. You'll then have to scramble a bit up west to meet up with the landing of rap #3 as it'll deposit you at the base of Feathers and Stone.
If the LAST rap station is occupied by a party or three, you could also rap down the Friday's Folly anchor - a 2x 70m is probably best to be absolutely sure. Again, you'll be at the base of the Feathers and Stone route, and you'll need to scramble up a few hundred feet.
So long story short, do the 3 raps, or solo down the SW Chimney (IMHO). Oct 1, 2020
Westminster, Colorado
Boulder, CO
Boulder
Please leave any comments on our website: Flatironsclimbing.org.
The public meeting to vote on these routes will be held at 6:30pm February 5th at the BRC. Jan 3, 2024
Boulder
Please visit the FCC web site to see, and comment on, this and the other proposals this cycle: flatironsclimbing.org.
The public meeting to vote on these applications will be held at the BRC on June 7th at 6:30 pm. May 20, 2024
Boulder, CO
Boulder
Please visit the FCC web site to see, and comment on, this and the other proposals this cycle: flatironsclimbing.org/curre….
The public meeting to vote on these applications will be held at the BRC on February 7th at 7:30 pm. All are welcome to attend and vote there. Jan 14, 2025