Elevation: 1,062 ft
GPS: 44.045, -90.02 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 175,107 total · 965/month
Shared By: chris tregge on Oct 26, 2004 with improvements by Matt M
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

Description

Perhaps the best sport climbing area in Wisconsin now that Gibraltar is closed, Necedah has been drawing Wisconsin's finest for decades. Comprised of solid, colorful sandstone, these walls offer interesting climbing on clean, steep rock. Upon arriving at the cliff, THE wall invariably grabs the climber's attention. Fifty feet tall and steadily overhanging, this wall holds some of the best climbing in the Midwest.

Y-Crack (also called Wide Crack) splits the wall, with technical and pumpy jamming on its left variation (5.10d/11a) and technical crimping with thin gear on its right (5.11c). Many difficult sport climbs broach the wall's flanks and feature technical climbing with no rests. Wisconsin's premier sport route, "Whiskey a Go Go" (5.13a) can be found here.

Spires are situated around the wall like moons around a planet, and a mega classic 5.9/10a climbs up the center of the largest spire. On a clear day Roch a Cri, Wisconsin's largest cliff (now closed), can be spotted from the top of the spire. Further down Necedah's backbone of rock, the adventurous climber can find many exciting trad routes and some hidden sport gems.

If you visit Necedah, please keep a low profile. Climbers have been here for many years and Necedah has remained a peaceful place to escape the Devil's Lake throngs. PLEASE KEEP IT THAT WAY.

Dont even THINK about camping there; we don't need to get this place closed.

Getting There

From the town of Necedah, drive east about three miles on Highway 21. You will see the sandstone towers right in front of you. Take a right onto the road that parallels the cliff (19th street) and park in a pull-out on your left a half mile down. A short hike through the woods straight back and then uphill to the left will take you to Y-Crack, the southern most formation.

Parking is at coordinates: 44.042510, -90.020508

89 Total Climbs

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Location: Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 47
Phallus in Wonderland
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 210
Air
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Pigeon Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's C…
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 63
Glass Balls
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Hydroponics
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 124
Tower Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 73
Mercy F**k
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 50
Fire in the Sky
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
Riverboat Gambler
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 73
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way)
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 58
Dakota Farms Cheese
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 70
Early Times
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 30
Straight No Chaser
Trad, TR
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 45
Whiskey a Go-Go
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Phallus in Wonderland Air Spire
 47
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Air Air Spire
 210
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Pigeon Crack Y-Crack Wall
 45
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Chucklehead Crack (aka Spik… Air Spire
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Glass Balls Hell Wall (aka Quarry…
 63
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Hydroponics Coyote Tower
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tower Route Y-Crack Wall
 124
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mercy F**k Hell Wall (aka Quarry…
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fire in the Sky Fire Spire
 50
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Riverboat Gambler Above Anthrax
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the… Y-Crack Wall
 73
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Dakota Farms Cheese Y-Crack Wall
 58
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Early Times Y-Crack Wall
 70
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Straight No Chaser Y-Crack Wall
 30
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Whiskey a Go-Go Y-Crack Wall
 45
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) »

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