Ben Faber at the crux on Penis Dimension 5.10 at V...
Description
A great line with a wild crux. In the same alcove as Climb and Punishment and just to it's right, merging with C&P after about 60 feet. Climbs nice stemming handcrack. As it widens, brace yourself and fire the intimidating and not so obvious crux. A #3 Camalot (or larger) will protect the crux move at the 'pod.' I'll only give you one clue, don't layback.
I tried to lie back 3 times- climbing up to and down from the crux testing each possible hold before I figured it out and did it right. One of my partners just never got it, although she got Hung Like A Horse (5.11a). Height and reach might be a factor for this climb.
I led the crux the "mysterious" way, which felt like 5.9+ to me, yet a reach-challenged person will find it impossible to do that way. In any case, I guess I highly offended some local punter who felt compelled to scream up at me, "YOU HAVE TO STAY IN THE POD... YOU'RE OFF ROUTE!!"... a**hole. I hate to admit it, but I think punter-dude might be right after TRing it afterwards... I think the grade is for climbing the pod straight on which felt about like 10+ OW to me.
Nothing is off-route outside huh...Don't tell that to Horsetooth Reservoir or England or anywhere else climbing is to be had 'outside' with limited resources. Besides, if you think it's on, and don't care about climbing it using the intended holds, use it, it's not our job to judge another person's climbng experience. Everything may be usable, but certainly, not everything is 'on'. Maybe it is ridiculous to say 'hey, that foot is off', but sometimes using and not using a hold makes a a climb completely different, either way, make sure we remember that the most important thing about climbing is having fun, not necessarily climbing hard or debating ratings. Haven't been on the route, just talking ethics and such.