Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Pamela Shanti Pack
Page Views: 770 total · 44/month
Shared By: Kris Schrijvers on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Ascend 20 feet of inverted climbing through a steep roof, followed by overhanging arm-bars, capped by 30 feet of 5.12a blue-collar groveling. Despite the two bolts, the route still requires a hefty rack. - Pamela Shanti Pack

Location

This is on the back side of Reynolds Hill almost directly to the right of Intergalactic Bong Rip.

Protection

Big stuff! and 2 draws for bolts.

The bolts are placed to prevent a head first grounder potential if you by accident kick out your last cam. Skip the bolts if you are ready, your choice. One or two number #9s will protect you after the bolts.

Photos

Jtradshaw
Fargo, ND
 
Jtradshaw   Fargo, ND
 
No, I have seen it attempted and belayed a partner who wanted to try it. Offwidth is not my favorite thing, and I actually don't remember giving it a bomb rating. I run mountain project off of my phone. I noticed the route wasn't on here, so I added it. Oct 28, 2017
Kris Schrijvers
  5.13 R
Kris Schrijvers  
  5.13 R
The war ended last September, finally defeating this monster. Learned to be humble and patient with this one. Did not use the bolts. Placed a 5", then the 6" as far as I could. Pushing one 9" on the last section. Thank you, Pamela, the fun just sitting around and be foolish :-). Nov 3, 2017
Warriors
Rock City, GA
  5.13 R
Warriors   Rock City, GA
  5.13 R
I used the bolts. Congrats, Kris! Jawohl! My thanks to Jbro for the belays and encouragement, and, Shanti, wow what a route. I looked at my journal entry...it says: " Beef. Supreme. No sleep til Brooklyn. Insane day with Jbro. Ravens were cackling...". Mar 26, 2018
Warriors
Rock City, GA
  5.13 R
Warriors   Rock City, GA
  5.13 R
This route is named after the sci-fi book by Joe Haldeman iirc. Great book, kind of a Vietnam parable. Mar 26, 2018
slim    
Can an admin transfer this route to somebody who has actually climbed it (maybe Kris or Warrior)? Nothing worse than somebody posting a route that they haven't set foot on.... Mar 27, 2018
Jtradshaw
Fargo, ND
 
Jtradshaw   Fargo, ND
 
Someone take it. I provided all of the correct info, Slim, but take it if you can improve. Frankly, I'm sick of the bitching. Mar 27, 2018
Warriors
Rock City, GA
  5.13 R
Warriors   Rock City, GA
  5.13 R
Hi, Slim and Tradshaw. Seems pretty ok to me, fellas. Especially compared to the last time it was up, from my hazy memory. :) Mar 27, 2018