Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Layne Kopischka & Gary Pousch c.1980
Page Views: 419 total · 3/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

I approached this using Klink (10a), which is a pretty fun, but short hand crack. From a large ledge, squirm into the very tight squeeze chimney. Endure the slick, tight, and sustained chimney for about 50 feet, until it opens up to a low-angle corner with a hand crack. As for Pro, I used a 1 # 6 BD at the start of the chimney, from there the pro is sparse (i.e., non-existant) unless you have a #4 & 5 Big Bro I suppose. For me the crux of this route was trying to balance my breathing with security. My chest is around 40", so the more secure the climbing (deeper in the chimney) the more impossible it was to breath.

At the top of the climb traverse climber's right, a good ways and find the rap anchors atop Labyrinth.

Location

20 yards right of Pooh's Corner.

Protection

Standard rack of hand-sized cams, couple of finger-sized pieces if approaching via Klink. As for KP; #6 BD and Big Bros. Bring a #3 BD for the belay.

Photos

Mattyicebags
Boulder, CO
Mattyicebags   Boulder, CO
It seems Klink isn't yet listed, eh? Too bad, it's a good climb. Jun 29, 2009