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Routes in Reynolds Hill

Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barf Bucket Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bloodletting T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Climbs of Passion Exit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Connecticut Yankee T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cosmic Debris T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Man's Demise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fist Crack, The T V0+ 4+
Forever War, The T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a R
Glenda's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Howling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hug Jombo T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hung Like a Horse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Intergalatic Bong Rip T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
K.P. T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Klink T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maiden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Matron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moor's Crossing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peach Cobbler T V1 5
Penis Dimension T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pooh Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robert's Rectification T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sky Line T V0- 4-
Spatial Relations T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Time Quake T V4 6B
Tombstone Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Cowan, Mattson, McWhirter, '83
Page Views: 1,222 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 7, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This line climbs Climb and Punishment for its first 50 feet before taking the finger crack that exits on the left. The crack involves a relatively short battle to stay balanced whilst jamming. It seemed best to belay just past the lip before continuing up and left to reach the jumbled rocks above Finger Grinder, where easy scrambling down through blocks leads to the Glenda's Chimney rappel.

The line has quality moves, especially with the approach via Climb and Punishment. Plenty of no hands rest options exist just prior to cutting into the finger crack, including the version I found that resembled sitting in a Barker Lounger. Perhaps it was my creativity in resting before heading into the line, but I still think the line is soft for the Vedauwoo 11c grade. [Perhaps it is] comparable to Max Factor but less sustained.

Protection

Gear from 3" to tips. [It is useful] to have extra 1-3 inch gear for a belay anchor over the lip.

Recommended rack with grain of salt: doubles #3-0.5 BD + 2x #1 TCU + (belay) one extra #2-#4 Camalot + 1-2" pieces.

Photos

EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
Although not very sustained, the crux moves on this climb feel harder to me than the crux moves on Max Factor, Eagle Brand, Bordwalk, or 4th of July Crack. And be careful lowering off of the anchors - I used up every foot of a 60m rope. Jul 27, 2010
Climbs of Passion Exit now has a two bolt anchor on slab above the end of the crack. This anchor allows a lower-off (90 feet). Hopefuly this will make the route a bit more popular as it is high quality and could clean up a bit. And yes, its a bargain for Vedauwoo 5.11c... Aug 19, 2007
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
On the subject of "cutting"... I recommend a wrap or two of tape for the digits on this one. If you blow a foot on the steep left wall and your corn-fed self rips said digits out of (and downward thru) the crack's serrated edges.... Some of the worst crack-gobi's I've had. Oct 12, 2005