Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler? Duncan Ferguson?
Page Views: 12,912 total · 60/month
Shared By: Ben F on Sep 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

It seems like most climbing areas have a climb with this name. This is the left most crack system in the alcove located in the Reynolds Hill formation. Though my seconds may disagree, there was nothing punishing about this climb.

The start is a bit awkward - place and keep moving, but once you get through it, the rest of the route is pure enjoyment. C and P merges toward the top with Penis Dimension (a nice climb to the right) and shares the same anchors. Call it about 75 or 80 feet.

Protection

Standard rack. You don't need anything smaller or larger than a #1.5 and #4 Friend, respectively. Bring doubles in the hand-sized range and don't forget your stoppers. There is a fixed anchor at the top from which you can rappel with one rope.
Super fun, but very sustained. My partner had A LOT more trouble with this one than the 10a part of Friday the 13th. Aug 26, 2002
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Classic. It's easy to look at this and say, "ah, #2's!", but don't forget a couple #3 Camalot-sized pieces for the upper half of the pitch. Jun 3, 2005
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
Perfect, bomber hand jams can be had the whole way up if you look for them. This pitch is more difficult than it looks. Jun 12, 2006
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Sustained. Hexes are useful, since all of the jams are so slotter. Penis Dimension is easily toproped after leading this. Oct 25, 2006
Brian Story
  5.9+
Brian Story  
  5.9+
This is a great route. Harder than it looks. Sinker jams the whole way. Gear list is perfect. Watch the rope when lowering off - a 60m makes it with little room to spare. Dec 10, 2006
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
 
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
 
Super classic.

With the exception of the first 10 feet which are a bit awkward, sinker jams the whole way. Jul 6, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I am glad I didn't listen to Ben's advice on the gear. The suggestion of a double set of cams for this climb is a bit of a sandbag! I would probably take the following gear the next time I climb this one.

1X -> #1, 2 #1's, 4-6 #2's, 2 #3's, 1 #3.5, a few large nuts Jul 30, 2007
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Guy, you're not serious are you? My wife lead it with a double set and was pretty comfortable. She doesn't really run stuff out either. Did you miss some placements for smaller gear? Four to six #2's? I'm not quite sure if you could find enough room in the crack to fit so many! Jul 30, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Slim, the climb stays at the #2 size for about 50ft. I wouldn't call 4-6 cams in that size to be excessive. I am sure you could search around for smaller gear, if you had to. I would think the average climber would be wanting more than 2 #2's on this climb, assuming that you didn't carry hex's. Jul 30, 2007
Jacob Dolence
Morgantown, WV
5.9+
Jacob Dolence   Morgantown, WV
5.9+
There are birds living in this crack. Aug 7, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
It may give you 50 feet of perfect hand jams, but the crack tapers down to smaller than that a LOT. So you could get away with a double set if you didn't feel like placing gear in your jams, or preferred to go deeper with your placements.

Also, if you find yourself bouted by the start, head over towards the Plumbline Crag and fire off the boulder problem "Unnamed Crack 2". It's basically the same moves, but you don't have to fiddle with gear. Sep 7, 2007
NickinCO
colorado
  5.10a
NickinCO   colorado
  5.10a
Felt way harder than the first pitch of Pooh Corner. Leader only used 2 #2s also and had gear placements every body length. Jun 3, 2012
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10a
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10a
Very awkward start and then pretty big and rattly hands for me...but hey I prefer BD #1. Jun 4, 2012
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Birds still there 5 years later. Actually made me think of the Hitchcock movie; they went nuts so loud and at such a high pitch that the cam I had in my hand resonated like a tuning fork. Weird. Stellar climb. Jul 10, 2012
Michael Mahoney
Gillette, WY
  5.10a
Michael Mahoney   Gillette, WY
  5.10a
I'd like the climb better if the top wasn't painted white with bird crap at the top. It's impossible to avoid. Caught myself wiping my hands across my mouth a couple times after the climb...yuck. I believe the flared hands of the backward leaning crack at the beginning to be a solid 10a and rate the climb accordingly. 3 star route that would be 4 minus the bird dung. Oct 24, 2012
Stephen Burns
Coloardo
  5.9+
Stephen Burns   Coloardo
  5.9+
Bird poop can be avoided easily with creative stemming, and they make some very fun noises at you. Fun climb, awkward start. Nov 11, 2013
Robert Joyce
Laramie
 
Robert Joyce   Laramie
 
Purty rap station at the top of this guy now, thanks to the Stebbinator. May 17, 2015
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.9+
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.9+
Would be 4 stars if there wasn't all that bird poo :/ Sick hand crack though! Sep 7, 2015
Katie Foster
Laramie, Wy
 
Katie Foster   Laramie, Wy
 
One of my favorite routes. I have led it 3 times now and never needed more than 2 #2s and 1 #3. There is so much variability throughout the entire climb that you can make do with pretty much any rack. Oct 19, 2015
FA was either by Charlie Fowler or Duncan Ferguson. Apr 19, 2017