Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches
FA: Duncan Ferguson, John Garson, Jeb Schenck, 1969
Page Views: 4,140 total · 28/month
Shared By: Brian Story on Dec 10, 2006 with updates from Lauren Wilson
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This quality 2-pitch route is another fine Reynolds Hill moderate. The first pitch ascends up a unique triangular chimney. Overcome the well-protected crux entry moves and enjoy the odd geometry and helpfull face features all the way to the chimney terminus. Belay on gear. Many people rappel off here (via Glenda's Chimney).

Move the belay to the base of the second pitch, which ascends an obvious dihedral. A big cam (#5 Camalot or equivalent Big Bro) can be used to make the 1st half of the pitch well-protected. Enjoy the crux moves off a guano-infested ledge. As for rating accuracy, p1 is fair for the grade and p2 is slightly soft for the grade.

Location

This route is ~80 feet north of the Climb and Punishment apse. Just look for a triangular chimney, rack up, and proceed upwards.

Protection

Standard rack plus big gear up to a #4 Camalot. Bring 2-3 #4 Camalot sized pieces if this route is at your limit. A #5 Camalot-sized piece is not required but could go in on both pitches.

Photos

Shanna
 
Shanna  
 
Loved the #5 Camalot. Walked it up when the wall got slick. Jun 4, 2007
419
Sacramento
 
419   Sacramento
 
The second pitch is not often done. Top out the climb to enter the Labyrinth. Jul 5, 2011
jlnash  
This is a super fun route. The first 12 feet is definitely the crux which has a lot of good protection. This website says the road is open, but it isn't, so park at the parking lot and walk down until you can see Reynolds Left and proceed up to this unique route. Also watch out for the dead bird about halfway up!!! Nothing like a good luck charm to say "keep going". Jul 27, 2015
Moritz B.
  5.8+
Moritz B.  
  5.8+
Bring a #3, #4, #5, #6 (optional), and a #1 and #2 for the belay. Oct 12, 2015
My gear beta (c4 sizes) - for the P1 belay, I used a #2, #1, #0.75. For P2, I used a #0.75, #4 (2), and a #5, and then to setup the anchor, I used a #1, #2, and #4 extended over from a big crack over a lump of rock to the climber's left, with a large nut as a directional to keep it from shifting. Note that for the P2 anchor you can also use a #2 as a directional to keep the rope from pushing your last cam deeper into the crack if your follower were to fall. Oct 25, 2018