Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches
FA: Duncan Ferguson, John Garson, Jeb Schenck, 1969
Page Views: 7,673 total · 36/month
Shared By: Brian Story on Dec 10, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Description Suggest change

This quality 2-pitch route is another fine Reynolds Hill moderate. The first pitch ascends up a unique triangular chimney. Overcome the well-protected crux entry moves and enjoy the odd geometry and helpfull face features all the way to the chimney terminus. Belay on gear. Many people rappel off here (via Glenda's Chimney).

Move the belay to the base of the second pitch, which ascends an obvious dihedral. A big cam (#5 Camalot or equivalent Big Bro) can be used to make the 1st half of the pitch well-protected. Enjoy the crux moves off a guano-infested ledge. As for rating accuracy, p1 is fair for the grade and p2 is slightly soft for the grade.

Location Suggest change

This route is ~80 feet north of the Climb and Punishment apse. Just look for a triangular chimney, rack up, and proceed upwards.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack plus big gear up to a #4 Camalot. Bring 2-3 #4 Camalot sized pieces if this route is at your limit. A #5 Camalot-sized piece is not required but could go in on both pitches.

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