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Trad, TR, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 60
FA: Duncan Ferguson, John Garson, Jeb Schenck, 1969
> Reynolds Hill
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
This quality 2-pitch route is another fine Reynolds Hill moderate. The first pitch ascends up a unique triangular chimney. Overcome the well-protected crux entry moves and enjoy the odd geometry and helpfull face features all the way to the chimney terminus. Belay on gear. Many people rappel off here (via Glenda's Chimney).
Move the belay to the base of the second pitch, which ascends an obvious dihedral. A big cam (#5 Camalot or equivalent Big Bro) can be used to make the 1st half of the pitch well-protected. Enjoy the crux moves off a guano-infested ledge. As for rating accuracy, p1 is fair for the grade and p2 is slightly soft for the grade.
This route is ~80 feet north of the Climb and Punishment apse. Just look for a triangular chimney, rack up, and proceed upwards.
Standard rack plus big gear up to a #4 Camalot. Bring 2-3 #4 Camalot sized pieces if this route is at your limit. A #5 Camalot-sized piece is not required but could go in on both pitches.