Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Rob Kelman, Jim Brink, 1981
Page Views: 40 total · 17/month
Shared By: Sam Lawrence on Aug 16, 2021
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Description

The guidebook calls this a separate climb, but to get to it, you have to climb the first pitch of Hesitation or Serpentine, move right, and climb Rag-Tag (see that entry), which will dump you at a nice cove below a huge chockstone.

Chimney around the chockstone on its right side - easier than it looks with good protection. Go through one more easy bulge for the grade using a combination of techniques. For the crux bulge, I found it protected well with a 4, 3.5, and a sloppy 6 after the move, but it was not necessary. I got into the pod via a nice face foothold on the left side, but that might be tall person beta. My crux was getting through a tight section, where I could rest on a chickenwing pretty well but really struggled to move my heel toe up because of the tightness. I would put all my effort into moving up 1/2 inch and just come right down. I finally scooted out far enough to get my foot up. Face climbers could probably just yard on the crimp, like my partner did. I am pretty sure there are no anchors, we descended through the labyrinth (same descent as Labyrinth if you climb P2), eventually finding the Glenda's anchors.

Kelman calls it 9+, and Orenczak  calls it 9. I got through it clean (barely), so I am going with 9.

Protection

A standard Vedauvoo rack, though you could probably get away with nothing bigger than a 4.

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