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Routes in Reynolds Hill

Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barf Bucket Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bloodletting T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Climbs of Passion Exit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Connecticut Yankee T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cosmic Debris T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Man's Demise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fist Crack, The T V0+ 4+
Forever War, The T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a R
Glenda's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Howling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hug Jombo T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hung Like a Horse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Intergalatic Bong Rip T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
K.P. T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Klink T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maiden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Matron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moor's Crossing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peach Cobbler T V1 5
Penis Dimension T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pooh Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robert's Rectification T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sky Line T V0- 4-
Spatial Relations T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Time Quake T V4 6B
Tombstone Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,713 total, 17/month
Shared By: kevinnlong on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Pitch one begins in an open book for the first 12 feet protected by small nuts (~5.7). The book leads to a groove--narrow chimney heading upwards and to the climber's right. Follow the chimney until its end for roughly 120 feet. It becomes progressively narrower and begins to squeeze, and it squeezes for a good distance! Sling and enjoy the chock stone deep within the chimney. Until the chock stone is encountered, big gear is helpful in the chimney (otherwise, pro is scarce). After the chockstone, the protection opportunities narrow to hand sized pieces deep inside.

When the chimney opens up, follow the vertical crack above that narrows to nice finger locks and hand jams to a triangular hole beneath an enormous roof (5.8). Step left and belay under the roof at a rappel station (requires a 60 meter rope to bail here).

Pitch 2 head left for 10 feet and cut back to the right up another narrow chimney that protects with small finger cracks initially on one side and then on the other (5.8). This chimney ends on a giant platform.

Walk off to the North and then to the East.

Prepare for a total body workout and serious cardiovascular activity!

Location

The Tombstone Crack is the furthest climb to the climber's right (to the North) on the East Face of Reynolds hill listed in the Heel and Toe guidebook. It is ~15-20 feet to the climber's right of Horror Show (100 feet right and upwards from Moors Crossing).

Rappel after pitch 1 (60 meter rope required!) or walk off to the North and then East from the top.

Protection

Standard Vedauwoo Rack required. We carried a #4 Camalot and #5 Friend and used both. Indeed, a #6 Camalot would be nice on both pitches but is not necessary.

Photos

Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
This climb is incredibly fun and interesting if you like chimney climbing. It can be done in one long pitch to the top with a 60 m rope. Oct 15, 2011
I led this last summer with gear to 3 inches, and it was a bit scary. I managed to fish 2 nuts in for about 100 feet before I plugged in my #3. Thank God it was easy chimney. Stemming moves. Jun 9, 2011