Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,985 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This is a fine, three pitch tour of the South face of the main Reynold's Complex maybe a hundred yards or so right from the SW facing Climb and Punishment alcove. It gets three stars if you like Vedauwoo style chimneying and sparsely protected face climbing. When approaching the formation, continue up the trail in the wash until the line is obvious.

P1. The first pitch follows the obvious trough as it tunnels up into the rock. Follow this groove placing finger-sized gear in a crack on the left until reaching a shelf before a more continous section of chimneying which turns into a squeeze of narrow proportions. After the rock gives birth to you over a chockstone, climb up a slot on the left then above and right to a large belay ledge.

P2. The second pitch follows the right-facing dihedral with large pro but easy climbing until on top of a 'flange' of rock.

P3. The third pitch face climbs with no protection right and up to a water scoop with small cracks at its top - place your first pro here. Pull over this bulge to a short section of unprotected face climbing in the groove above before joining the wide crack to the right. Follow this to the top.

It is possible to combine the first two pitches with a 60 meter rope, but I would not recommend this due to heinous rope drag. It might (?) be easier to combine the 2nd and 3rd, if so inclined. Walk off to the right (east) - we found 4th class traversing too early (?) to the South. Perhaps the better walkoff is right (east) and then North. This route would likely be a 5.7 anywhere else.

Protection

Standard rack of diverse protection to a #4 Camalot (or larger if you've got it and want to drag it through narrow places). It has PG-13 runouts.

Photos