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The Temporary War aka The Short Battle
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Reynolds Hill
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Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barf Bucket Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Black Starr Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bloodletting T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Climb and Punishment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Climbs of Passion Exit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Coffee Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Yankee T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cosmic Debris T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat Man's Demise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Man’s Demise, Straight Up Variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Finger Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fist Crack, The T V0+ 4+ |
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Forever War, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Glenda's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Howling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hug Jombo T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hung Like a Horse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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K.P. T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Klink T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Labyrinth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Maiden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Main Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Matron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moor's Crossing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Peach Cobbler T V1 5 |
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Penis Dimension T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pooh Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robert's Rectification T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sky Line T V0- 4- |
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Spatial Relations T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Temporary War aka The Short Battle, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Time Quake T V4 6B |
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Tombstone Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vag of Honor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | Albert Han |
| Page Views: | 145 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Albert Cronenberg on Aug 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Details
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Description
Are you dying to try The Forever War but don't want to lead it? Well you're in luck, because there's an easy way up to the anchors!
I too wanted to prove I could climb like Pamela Shanti Pack (boy, would I find out how wrong I was). I didn't want to exhaust myself going up Intergalactic Bong Rip, so I peaked around the corner of The Forever War to find another way up to the anchors.
The climb starts with a little bit of crack climbing and transitions to a little bit of offwidth. After the offwidth/chimney section in order to gain the last ledge, you'll have to execute a dicey move -- it's the crux, it's delicate, and it's unprotected. If that makes you uncomfortable, you can try the offwidth variation, but that would make the climb considerably harder.
If you're not a 5.12 - 5.13 climber in Vedauwoo and you're going to TR The Forever War, prepare to be humbled. Keep the ropes separated on your rappel so that they don't twist. I recommend a single rope rappel.
BTW, this didn't look like it had been climbed before. It was chossy, and vegetation was present in the cracks. If someone had the FA though, just drop a note.
I too wanted to prove I could climb like Pamela Shanti Pack (boy, would I find out how wrong I was). I didn't want to exhaust myself going up Intergalactic Bong Rip, so I peaked around the corner of The Forever War to find another way up to the anchors.
The climb starts with a little bit of crack climbing and transitions to a little bit of offwidth. After the offwidth/chimney section in order to gain the last ledge, you'll have to execute a dicey move -- it's the crux, it's delicate, and it's unprotected. If that makes you uncomfortable, you can try the offwidth variation, but that would make the climb considerably harder.
If you're not a 5.12 - 5.13 climber in Vedauwoo and you're going to TR The Forever War, prepare to be humbled. Keep the ropes separated on your rappel so that they don't twist. I recommend a single rope rappel.
BTW, this didn't look like it had been climbed before. It was chossy, and vegetation was present in the cracks. If someone had the FA though, just drop a note.
Photos
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