Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: P1 - Jeb Schenck & Kurt?, 1970/71 (approximately), P2 - Gary Issacs, mid 1970s
Page Views: 6,611 total · 32/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Climb the excellent, short but sustained 5.9 hand crack to 2-bolt anchor. Either rap (~60') or continue up off-width slot (5.10b).

Location

The trail up to Reynolds Hill will put you pretty much directly under the Climb and Punishment alcove. Go left, hopping and ducking around boulders, moving pretty much uphill. Keep hiking until you see an obvious clean right-facing dihedral with a hand crack, a bolted anchor, and a flaring OW above the anchor. This is your climb. Have fun.

Protection

Hand-size cams plus larger gear if you opt to not bail out at the anchors.

Photos

Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
The first pitch is very cool and moderate. It has wide secitons that can be skipped to good jams if you look for them. On the second pitch you will need a couple #3 cams at the start and a #3.5 and a #4. I also used a #4.5 in a wide pod but a #5 would have been better. Yes, I did sew it up. I did so because a fall would crash you into your belayer. You can avoid this if you do it as one pitch. Be very careful of the loose blocks at the top. Knee pads were nice on this one.casey bernal Jun 17, 2002
2nd pitch FFA by Gary Issacs mid 1970s, 1st ptich was climbed alone before that. Oct 12, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
For the first pitch, I did well with a set from #0.75 c4 to #4 c4 with triples in the #3, and an old-style #4 Camalot. Also, there's a fixed nut above the jug that was too deep to clip on the way up, and I forgot to clean on the way down. Jul 31, 2011
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Great flaring crack - P1 takes 0.75 up to 5 (optional), can also be climbed with large nuts and medium hexes. Fun and secluded! We got charged by cows on the approach. Jul 3, 2013
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
 
Wasn't secluded on the Monday holiday we went on. There was a large group like ours there - 5 people or so. Anywho...

I thought this was a fabulous climb for being outside of the creek. My only complaints are the wider section up above - pretty frustrating and that it's been climbed a lot resulting in a pretty chalky slightly greasy crack. Don't let that stop you though! Sep 7, 2013
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
Lolz @ 5.9. It's a 10-, and I have huge nasty meat clams for hands. Smaller hands folks without a bit of true grit, have fun. Sep 3, 2014
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
 
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
 
Great pitch. For P1, the perfect rack is 2-3 of #1, 2 ,3 C4s. No bigger gear is required. Sep 8, 2015
Pooh Corner 1st ascent P1, Jeb Schenck and Kurt? back about '70-71. First time we ever used clean pro--very interesting as we didn't know how to place it, and it all pulled out when I placed the top piece. Draws had not been figured out yet. We looked at the upper pitch--but had nothing to protect it with. The only pro then were giant aluminum T bars or tubes, and they were sketchy. I really enjoyed the crack, even when we firsts climbed it in late November. We thought it was about an easy 9. Apr 19, 2017
John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
Anyone know the name/grade of the line that traverses right at the top of P1 of Pooh's? Thanks. Aug 8, 2017