Black Starr Chimney
Avg: 1.5 from 12 votes
Routes in Reynolds Hill
|Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Barf Bucket Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Black Starr Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Bloodletting T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Climb and Punishment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Climbs of Passion Exit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Coffee Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Connecticut Yankee T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cosmic Debris T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fat Man's Demise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Finger Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fist Crack, The T V0+ 4+|
|Forever War, The T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a R|
|Glenda's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Howling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Hug Jombo T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Hung Like a Horse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Intergalatic Bong Rip T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|K.P. T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Klink T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Labyrinth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Maiden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Matron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Moor's Crossing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Peach Cobbler T V1 5|
|Penis Dimension T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Pooh Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Robert's Rectification T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sky Line T V0- 4-|
|Spatial Relations T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Time Quake T V4 6B|
|Tombstone Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||730 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Buck Dooley on Oct 2, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionThis has easy chimneying from start to finish.
If you choose to face the back of the chimney on the first move, a good hand jam on the left side of a round boulder offers great moves onto the lower blocks that are in the back. These blocks can be climbed for another ten feet before you ever have to put your feet up against the chimney wall...but who wants to do that?
Go ahead and start out with what ever chimney technique you are comfortable with, and continue the whole way up. Keep your back on the right side wall, there are plenty of opportunities for gear on the left sidewall. It's only about thirty-five or forty feet to the chockstone on top.
Exit the chimney on the left side of the chockstone and take a moment or two to enjoy the view of the Central Rocks, Nautilus, and Holdout.
Then wipe the bat guano off your hands....
LocationBlack Starr is a three foot wide chimney about sixty feet to the right of Pooh Corner. It is littered with huge rocks in the back and has an easily distinguished triangular chockstone at its top.
Scramble up to the mouth of the chimney and belay from the huge ledge that is about even with the chains on the first pitch of Pooh Corner.
You could rap off of the ring on the chockstone, but it would be a tight squeeze. You would be better off scrambling down up and over to the left.