Type: Trad
FA: [Ron Matous and Gary Issacs, 1975]
Page Views: 15,171 total · 60/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Description

This is a stunning crack to the right of Penis Dimension.

Start in the left-facing dihedral with a horizontal crack 30 feet up. Small hand jams and good pro to the horizontal ledge which provides a no-hands rest that will quickly tire the feet. From there, perfect hand jams lead to the intimidating roof with a perfect #4 Camalot placement. Pull through this one move offwidth section to the slab above. Delicate slabbing will bring you to the anchors which are not visible until the slab is surmounted. The two bolt anchor can be used for top-roping and is equipped for rappel. 

This is the best route I've done at Vedauvoo, with unbeatable protection.

Protection

Sparse nuts, sparse small cams to #1 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots, as many #2 Camalots as you can scrounge, 1 #4 Camalot.

Photos