Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Hurley and Jerry Sublett
Page Views: 1,846 total · 12/month
Shared By: Don Bushey on Jun 11, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This big beauty lies just to the right of the Climb and Punishment alcove and splits the entire SW face of Reynolds Hill.

P1. Begin in a large, right-facing recess, and climb through some cracks and fins for about 40 feet. A bail sling here offers your last option for retreat. Fight and squirm through the bulging slot (5.9) until the angle eases. Run it out for about 50 feet of 5.8 chimney. A cool exit move through a handcrack in a headwall deposits you on a shelf to belay (140 feet). This classic pitch defines 5.9 wide climbing at the Woo!

P2. A short and easy 50 feet pitch takes you to the top.

A convoluted walk off/ downclimb takes you to the rear of the formation then contours back around to the front.

Protection

Rack up to a #6 Friend with doubles in the #2-#4 sizes. A #4-#5 Big Bro and knee pads could be useful in the runout chimney.

Photos

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Chris Moore
Loveland, CO
 
Chris Moore   Loveland, CO
 
This route obviously doesn't see much traffic. I've been watching this page for two years looking for comments to get a better idea of what to expect from this beauty I've been eyeing ever since first seeing it. At the time of this post, 8 people have either ticked or rated it, I sure would have loved to have heard more from any of you and since this page remains bare, I'm going to post. I wish I had pictures, but I didn't start this until after one and this time of year that was probably too late for any safety margin and definitely too late to waste any time so unless I work up the courage to repeat there's no pictures :(. The first thing I have to say is that while I wish I could offer some more information to anyone else wanting it, and in spite of what I mention about my silent partners above, I'm not sure I can offer any more than the administrator of this page already did in the description above. It's dead on. I've already been lengthy without actually saying anything, but I'll be glad to remove this if anyone else actually starts posting on this page.
I'm a real sissy. I was hoping I wouldn't actually have to run it out as mentioned in the description for 50 feet of 5.8 chimney (18 inches wide?), but to have avoided that I would have needed doubles of the Big Bro #5. I wouldn't t have minded 2 BD #6s either. My biggest fear after getting far enough into this that I couldn't turn back was falling into the chimney and getting stuck and checking out from hypothermia overnight - this would have been much better mid-summer than end of October. Maybe not the best follow up after leading Main Street in the morning either and after my partner who is a much better climber than me backed off of it (because he could see what I didn't want to see until it was too late) - that should have been my clue, but I was undeniably lured upward. Very rewarding. Fun? It would have been without the fear factor. Would definitely give it another star, too. I wish I could get the permission to put some bolts in the chimney to make it more sissy friendly, because it's a great adventure.
Also! Bonus beta: if you keep your eyes peeled, you may find a convoluted rappel sequence as opposed to walking off. The first of which was over the crest of the hill to the right after the hill begins to flatten and top out. Good luck to you who get on this horse! Oct 28, 2013
Deke Doty
Fort Collins, CO
Deke Doty   Fort Collins, CO
We did it a few years back before #5 Bigbros and #6 cams. Old #5 cam to get started BigBro's rest of the way (long pitch). I call it inchworm technique - knees on front wall, feet behind, strenuous. Three #4 BigBros we had to climb back in to place them, then sling 'em long, then climb out. No pictures. It would be hard after Mainstreet, harder size and technique for me, though rated easier. Enjoy! Whoever is next on this Hoss. Miss you, Craig! Nov 3, 2013