Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Garson & Jeb Schenck, early 1970s
Page Views: 1,559 total · 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Just left of Climb and Punishment, start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly it is not the most remarkable route on the formation; however, it is right next to Climb and Punishment. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing. The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze through the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale), so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders.

Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climber's left. One rope'll get you down.

Protection

Bring a standard rack for the V except no Big bros are required. There is no fixed protection.

Photos

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Jesse Ryan
  5.9
Jesse Ryan  
  5.9
I liked the route. Some typical V'd style flared, wide, groveling in the beginning, but relatively easy thanks to the curtain flake on the left. Up high, I found the finger crack crux protected well and thought the rock was pretty good, not that scaled or crumbly, and involved thoughtful moves. I'm pretty skinny - but not terribly so and fit through the final flare easily for a nice belay up near the highest flange or rock. Rappelled off via Glenda's Chimney. Sep 15, 2005
a Ball
Denver, CO
 
a Ball   Denver, CO
 
Personally I thought this route was a total blast. Granted I am total wide crack (and crack in general) gumby and I followed this pitch, but I had fun. Three sections: flared crack grovel, thin finger dihedral (def. crux for me), and short but very tight squeeze chimney right at the top. The biggest climbers will have trouble getting into the squeeze chimney - some may not be able to fit. We rapped from the top of Glenda's. Aug 7, 2014
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
  5.10-
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
  5.10-
I really felt like this was significantly harder than either Pooh's Corner or Climb and Punishment, both of those routes feel like accurate 5.9s to me, but Finger Grinder was significantly more difficult. Now, I think this is due to two factors, one, being that I have huge hands and fat fingers, so the finger locks were super tight for me, a couple were almost unusable. And two, the rock quality on the faces surrounding the crack was just utter garbage with lichen and loose, sharp crystals. A good route if only as a change of pace from your typical wide grovel, but it was still a bit of a grovel, just a finger-ey one. Sep 22, 2014
First ascent was by John Garson and Jeb Schenck in the early '70s. Apr 19, 2017