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Routes in Reynolds Hill

Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barf Bucket Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bloodletting T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Climbs of Passion Exit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Connecticut Yankee T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cosmic Debris T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Man's Demise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fist Crack, The T V0+ 4+
Forever War, The T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a R
Glenda's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Howling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hug Jombo T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hung Like a Horse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Intergalatic Bong Rip T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
K.P. T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Klink T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maiden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Matron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moor's Crossing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peach Cobbler T V1 5
Penis Dimension T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pooh Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robert's Rectification T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sky Line T V0- 4-
Spatial Relations T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Time Quake T V4 6B
Tombstone Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Garson & Jeb Schenck, early 1970s
Page Views: 1,416 total, 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 11, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Just left of Climb and Punishment, start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly it is not the most remarkable route on the formation; however, it is right next to Climb and Punishment. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing. The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze through the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale), so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders.

Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climber's left. One rope'll get you down.

Protection

Bring a standard rack for the V except no Big bros are required. There is no fixed protection.

Photos

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First ascent was by John Garson and Jeb Schenck in the early '70s. Apr 19, 2017
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
  5.10-
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
  5.10-
I really felt like this was significantly harder than either Pooh's Corner or Climb and Punishment, both of those routes feel like accurate 5.9s to me, but Finger Grinder was significantly more difficult. Now, I think this is due to two factors, one, being that I have huge hands and fat fingers, so the finger locks were super tight for me, a couple were almost unusable. And two, the rock quality on the faces surrounding the crack was just utter garbage with lichen and loose, sharp crystals. A good route if only as a change of pace from your typical wide grovel, but it was still a bit of a grovel, just a finger-ey one. Sep 22, 2014
a Ball
Boulder, CO
 
a Ball   Boulder, CO
 
Personally I thought this route was a total blast. Granted I am total wide crack (and crack in general) gumby and I followed this pitch, but I had fun. Three sections: flared crack grovel, thin finger dihedral (def. crux for me), and short but very tight squeeze chimney right at the top. The biggest climbers will have trouble getting into the squeeze chimney - some may not be able to fit. We rapped from the top of Glenda's. Aug 7, 2014
Jesse Ryan
  5.9
Jesse Ryan  
  5.9
I liked the route. Some typical V'd style flared, wide, groveling in the beginning, but relatively easy thanks to the curtain flake on the left. Up high, I found the finger crack crux protected well and thought the rock was pretty good, not that scaled or crumbly, and involved thoughtful moves. I'm pretty skinny - but not terribly so and fit through the final flare easily for a nice belay up near the highest flange or rock. Rappelled off via Glenda's Chimney. Sep 15, 2005