Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,713 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sam Benedict on Jul 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a classic sandbag for some one who has no offwith experience and a cakewalk for someone who does. It was one of my first wide leads, and I sent it in epic fashion. It starts with a sort of dihedral offwith to a ledge, to a chimney, to a couple hand jams to another chimney with a crack in the back, to a neat sandy bowl shaped belay ledge.

Location

This is an obvious chimney/off-with climb in the alcove about 20 yards left of Climb and Punishment.

Protection

Protecting this climb is a little tricky, the first section (though only 5.7) may deserve a PG rating with out Big bros. Big bros could be useful but would probably be overkill. The best pro I found all the way up was hand and finger size. It has a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Merlin
Grand Junction
 
Merlin   Grand Junction
 
Do not continue straight up after the first offwidth chimney, turn left up a crack/chimney or you will find yourself on harder/scarier climbing. Using the description on this page go up the dihedral, turn right at the ledge, go up the chimney, then bear left when you have three choices of chimney/cracks to pick from. Also I used two number 4 and two number 5 Black Diamond C4s on this climb, they definitely came in handy. May 17, 2007