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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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New Wave 

5.10a

   

FA: Larsen & Horning - 1982
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 220 feet
Views: 1,090 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2002


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Active day on the northeast side. Left to right@SE...


Description 

What a fantastic climb! We climbed this as an approach to Assembly Line - it starts at the Broken Tree area and finishes on top of the pillar where Assembly Line begins. Just to the right of this line is "Broken Tree" - another 10a that follows an obvious steep dihedral formed by, I believe, the Everlasting column.

I led this whole thing in one pitch using a 70m rope - this is definately the way to do the climb: even with a 60, have your partner tied in and ready to move up the pillar after you as you reach near the top - you will use all the rope. The climb starts off on a ramp and crack and gradually gets steeper and steeper, culminating in a very off-balance step-right move at the bolt. This move is very reminiscent of the crux of p1 of C'est La Vie in Eldorado Canyon in Boulder. Fantastic!

The climbing after this move is still quite difficult (but there are stances), easing after 15'. The climb culminates in 20' of perfect hand crack.


Protection 

Stoppers, friends. Mostly thin. There is a pin en-route to the crux and a bomber bolt protecting the crux. Fixed anchors. I used a pair of #2 camalots, but definately nothing larger.



Add Photo Photos of New Wave
Lyn following at the top of the pitch

Lyn following at the top of the pitch

View of New Wave from the base. The route goes up the crack system above the small tree on the left side of the photo.

BETA PHOTO: View of New Wave from the base. The route goes up ...

Joe Varela on New Wave

Joe Varela on New Wave


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By Graham Rogers
May 29, 2003

Take the quick yet dicey balance moves of New Wave for 110' to get to the Assembly Line pump.

By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a

This should be the first 10 you do on the Tower. Great moves... great rests... solid pro...

Wow... sounds like a lot of OTHER Tower 10's...

By nolteboy
Aug 25, 2006

New Wave is fer shur THE way to get to the goodness of Assemblyline. Although not a top-quality Tower route, it beats the daylights out of the humdrum stuff out to the left. Good luck getting on it, though - there's usually a mob scene at the base.

By Cameron Luth
Sep 25, 2006

This route is a sweet 10. The crux is kind of differant. The climb is awesome and has a great view, if you like climbing 10s I would highly recomend it.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2007
rating: 5.10a

This route is super fun. Compared to other Devil's Tower routes, it felt much less sustained.