Mountain Project: Climbing Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent. Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock but the north side of Tahquitz is notorious for loose rock.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There

From LA or Palm springs via Interstate 10 take Highway 243 from the town of Banning 24 miles south to the town of Idyllwild. After a stop sign (your first since leaving Banning) make a left onto North Circle Drive, the second left, and follow it to another stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

From the San Diego via Interstate 215 take Highway 74 to the town of Hemet, from which it's 14 miles to the small town of Mountain Center and the junction with Highway 243. Drive 5 miles to the town of Idyllwild and make a right onto North Circle Drive (just past The Fort) and follow it to a stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

Weather

Guidebook

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines is the most current/up-to-date guide available to the area.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks:

White Maiden's Walkaway 5.1 Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress

Angel's Fright 5.5 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...

Left Ski Track 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet South Face : South Face - Left Side

Fingertrip 5.7 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

Coffin Nail 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

The Long Climb 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess

Traitor Horn 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

Flower of High Rank 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress

Open Book 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 490 feet South Face : Open Book Area

Whodunit 5.9 Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess

El Camino Real 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side

Super Pooper 5.10a/b Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes

Sundance 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

The Vampire 5.11a Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes

Fred 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...

Valhalla 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side

Insomnia 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...

Green Arch 5.11c Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II South Face : Open Book Area

Paisano Overhang 5.12c R Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle

The Pirate 5.12d Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...

Photos of Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Slideshow

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Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickabl...	Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild	A unique perspective of both Tahquitz and Suicide ...
Indian pictographs, Idyllwild	View of Tahquitz from the summit of Suicide Rocks....	the perils of bandit camping in Idyllwild...
Cool Sunset in Idyllwild	A great end to a great day in Idyllwild	Tahquitz on a bright winter day
A glimpse of Suicide Rock from the approach trail.	Terry ready to send! Now on to the approach...	Don Thompson and Paul Richardson standing on top ...
View From Devils slide trail in winter	BETA PHOTO: Here's a sampling of food at the Market. I truly l...	Lower Strawberry Creek, Idyllwild
Me on Whodunit	Huge lenticular cloud formation developing over Ta...	Tahquitz from Fern Valley, Idyllwild
Suicide Rock from Fern Valley, Idyllwild	Gary's Mountain Meats & Deli, Idyllwild	Suicide Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Mount...

Comments on Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

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By Steve W Smith
From: Groveland, CA
Jul 1, 2010

Just spent 4 great days at Idyllwild climbing Tahquitz. Prepare to spend $20 per night at Idyllwild County Campground. $25 for the other campground. It has pay showers (50 cents for 3 minutes). If you can, bring your own firewood!!! It's $7.00 for one round split in quarters!
The general store opens at 5:30am. Great place to get a hot breakfast and watch the world cup as you plan your day. They bake fresh bread daily and I highly recommend getting your sandwich for lunch on the summit here! I had the best Italian sub of my life! I'll attach pics of the menu so you have a good idea.
If you plan to shop for groceries though, go down the street to the village grocery store. The prices are much lower! Much lower.
The guys at Nomad, the local climbing shop, are very helpful with any gear, but especially with local beta.
Lastly, there is rough camping in 2 locations near the town, but we found it pretty dusty ground, not great shade, and opted to pay for camping. Your opinion may vary. Daytime temps in June were 75 and nights were 50-55 degrees. Perfect!!

By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jul 23, 2010

Beta for climbing in a party of three.

1930s film featured climbing in Tahquitz.

By Manjushri
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 3, 2010

Hello,
Can anyone pipe in on the rules/general guidelines for dogs at Suicide/Tahquitz? I prefer not to bring my dog, but could not find a sitter, so...
Thanks

By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 4, 2010

Hey Guys-

is this really the "latest" guide available:

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, 3rd Edition

Seems like its from 2001....anyone know if anything is in the works like, oh I don't know a 4th edition perhaps?

hanks!

By jack howard
Mar 27, 2011

i am sport climber. area sucks. old style climbing. huge runouts. add a grade on every route. i can sport lead 11b. i was climbing 9s here. lilly rock may be good for trad but suicide sucks. go to holcomb north of big bear for best local sport. good camping and hiking though

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 31, 2011

Is is to cold for Tahquitz? I'm planning on a trip this weekend, April 2. I've been to Tahquitz few times last summer and thought it might still be cold, wet, snow(?) at higher elevation.

If I don't go to idyllwild, I'm heading to Joshua. Any suggestions for areas (routes) at Joshua for easy 5.5-5.7 routes where I won't have to give my name to maitre d (wait in line).

Thanks

By Bubba1983
Jul 5, 2011

For those sport climbers who feel a need to bag on Tahquitz, learn your history. The YDS was created here, so odds are if you think you need to add a couple of grades here the areas you usually climb are underrated.

Tahquitz has some truly historic routes, including the first 5.9 in the country. Yes, it's not sport climbing. No kidding! What it is is some of the best, most accessible trad climbing in the world. Super clean rock and great weather.

By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Aug 25, 2011

Anyone have beta on free camping near Idyllwild?

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 26, 2011

Some recent threads on camping in the Idyllwild area -

www.mountainproject.com/v/secludednf-camping-near-idyllwild/>>>

www.mountainproject.com/v/where-to-camp-when-boulder-basin-c>>>

www.mountainproject.com/v/overnight-parking-in-idyllwild/107>>>

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Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Description

Getting There

Weather

Guidebook

The Classics