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Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

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Suicide Rock 
Tahquitz Rock 
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Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,500'
Location: 33.7607, -116.679 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 345,559
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006  with updates from Sam Cannon and 1 more
Forecast:
Tonight

52°
Saturday

70° | 54°
Sunday

74° | 59°
Monday

77° | 59°
Tuesday

77° | 57°
Wednesday

74° | 54°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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A unique perspective of both Tahquitz and Suicide ...

Description 

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent. Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock but the north side of Tahquitz is notorious for loose rock.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There 

From LA or Palm springs via Interstate 10 take Highway 243 from the town of Banning 24 miles south to the town of Idyllwild. After a stop sign (your first since leaving Banning) make a left onto North Circle Drive, the second left, and follow it to another stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

From the San Diego via Interstate 215 take Highway 74 to the town of Hemet, from which it's 14 miles to the small town of Mountain Center and the junction with Highway 243. Drive 5 miles to the town of Idyllwild and make a right onto North Circle Drive (just past The Fort) and follow it to a stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

Weather Webcam 

climbidy.com/

Weather 



Guidebook 

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines is the most current/up-to-date guide available to the area.

Adventure Pass 

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

412 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',37],['3 Stars',133],['2 Stars',160],['1 Star',79],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',40],['5.7',32],['5.8',41],['5.9',54],['5.10',128],['5.11',83],['5.12',30],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks:
White Maiden's Walkaway   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress
The Trough   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side
Left Ski Track   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side
Angel's Fright   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
Fingertrip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side
Traitor Horn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side
The Long Climb   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess
Coffin Nail   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side
Open Book   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 490'   Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area
Flower of High Rank   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress
Whodunit   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess
El Camino Real   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side
Super Pooper   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Sundance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Vampire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Valhalla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Insomnia   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   (l) Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Green Arch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area
Paisano Overhang   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle
The Pirate   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   (l) Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Featured Route For Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Darshan on the Green Arch

Green Arch 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : (h) Open Book Area
The Green Arch is one of Tahquiz's greatest climbs. It follows a striking corner to the right of the Open Book (5.9). An amazing climb you don¬ít want to miss. And yes, it's sandbagged.Pitch one: Start about 100 feet below were the arch begins and climb past a few pitons and one bolt to a small ledge where the arch begins (5.10+).Pitch two: The crux. Stem your way up the smooth corner for about 100 feet. Except for the occasional pin scar there is no crack in the corner to help you out. Use ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickabl...
Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickabl...
Rock Climbing Photo: A great end to a great day in Idyllwild
A great end to a great day in Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch ...
Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Strawberry Creek, Idyllwild
Lower Strawberry Creek, Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: Milky Way seen from the campground in Idyllwild.
Milky Way seen from the campground in Idyllwild.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool Sunset in Idyllwild
Cool Sunset in Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Tahquitz from the summit of Suicide Rocks....
View of Tahquitz from the summit of Suicide Rocks....
Rock Climbing Photo: Terry ready to send!  Now on to the approach...
Terry ready to send! Now on to the approach...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cahuilla pictographs, Idyllwild
Cahuilla pictographs, Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: View From Devils slide trail in winter
View From Devils slide trail in winter
Rock Climbing Photo: Gary's Mountain Meats & Deli, Idyllwild
Gary's Mountain Meats & Deli, Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: Tahquitz from Fern Valley, Idyllwild
Tahquitz from Fern Valley, Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: Huge lenticular cloud formation developing over Ta...
Huge lenticular cloud formation developing over Ta...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tahquitz!!!!
Tahquitz!!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Cover to the 1962 guidebook, listing 77 routes. Th...
Cover to the 1962 guidebook, listing 77 routes. Th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Penny Tree detail, Tahquitz Rock
Penny Tree detail, Tahquitz Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: My old man took this.
My old man took this.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild
Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild
Rock Climbing Photo: One Hour Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Moun...
One Hour Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Moun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lowering off Baby Cobra crack.
Lowering off Baby Cobra crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Suicide Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Mount...
Suicide Rock from Tahquitz Rock, San Jacinto Mount...
Rock Climbing Photo: A glimpse of granite from the approach trail, Suic...
A glimpse of granite from the approach trail, Suic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Both of 'em
Both of 'em
Rock Climbing Photo: Heli
Heli

Show All 33 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 18, 2016
By Steve W Smith
From: Groveland, CA
Jul 1, 2010
Just spent 4 great days at Idyllwild climbing Tahquitz. Prepare to spend $20 per night at Idyllwild County Campground. $25 for the other campground. It has pay showers (50 cents for 3 minutes). If you can, bring your own firewood!!! It's $7.00 for one round split in quarters!
The general store opens at 5:30am. Great place to get a hot breakfast and watch the world cup as you plan your day. They bake fresh bread daily and I highly recommend getting your sandwich for lunch on the summit here! I had the best Italian sub of my life! I'll attach pics of the menu so you have a good idea.
If you plan to shop for groceries though, go down the street to the village grocery store. The prices are much lower! Much lower.
The guys at Nomad, the local climbing shop, are very helpful with any gear, but especially with local beta.
Lastly, there is rough camping in 2 locations near the town, but we found it pretty dusty ground, not great shade, and opted to pay for camping. Your opinion may vary. Daytime temps in June were 75 and nights were 50-55 degrees. Perfect!!
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jul 23, 2010
Beta for climbing in a party of three.



1930s film featured climbing in Tahquitz.
By Manjushri
Sep 3, 2010
Hello,
Can anyone pipe in on the rules/general guidelines for dogs at Suicide/Tahquitz? I prefer not to bring my dog, but could not find a sitter, so...
Thanks
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 4, 2010
Hey Guys-

is this really the "latest" guide available:


Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, 3rd Edition

Seems like its from 2001....anyone know if anything is in the works like, oh I don't know a 4th edition perhaps?

hanks!
By jack howard
Mar 27, 2011
i am sport climber. area sucks. old style climbing. huge runouts. add a grade on every route. i can sport lead 11b. i was climbing 9s here. lilly rock may be good for trad but suicide sucks. go to holcomb north of big bear for best local sport. good camping and hiking though
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 31, 2011
Is is to cold for Tahquitz? I'm planning on a trip this weekend, April 2. I've been to Tahquitz few times last summer and thought it might still be cold, wet, snow(?) at higher elevation.

If I don't go to idyllwild, I'm heading to Joshua. Any suggestions for areas (routes) at Joshua for easy 5.5-5.7 routes where I won't have to give my name to maitre d (wait in line).


Thanks
By Bubba1983
Jul 5, 2011
For those sport climbers who feel a need to bag on Tahquitz, learn your history. The YDS was created here, so odds are if you think you need to add a couple of grades here the areas you usually climb are underrated.

Tahquitz has some truly historic routes, including the first 5.9 in the country. Yes, it's not sport climbing. No kidding! What it is is some of the best, most accessible trad climbing in the world. Super clean rock and great weather.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Aug 25, 2011
Anyone have beta on free camping near Idyllwild?
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 26, 2011
Some recent threads on camping in the Idyllwild area -

mountainproject.com/v/secluded...

mountainproject.com/v/where-to...

mountainproject.com/v/overnigh...
By Isaac Shirley
Jul 31, 2013
Has anyone climbed up here since the mountain fire? the forest service has issued this information:

Due to the Mountain Fire camping permits will not be issued until further notice and the entire trail system in Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness is closed.

I figure that this would stop the climbing as well but can anyone confirm or deny.
By Daren
Aug 6, 2013
Stopped by a ranger station today (aug 6/13) and ranger said the whole area is closed.. I asked if it was all burned and she said no but there is still hotspots(?) and damaged areas around there so they closed all the trails. Apparently tahquitz isn't even damaged its just been closed due to the surrounding areas being damaged.
I decided to have a look for myself and go up to the parking area and that's closed off with construction taking place all around.. Nobody would give me details as to when it's going to open the ranger said to call every week for and update she wouldn't tell me anything, days, weeks, or months..

Goodluck!
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, CA
Feb 20, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Stolen 'deer' in Idyllwild.
Stolen 'deer' in Idyllwild.


Someone stole a deer from in front of La Casita restaurant in Idyllwild a few weeks ago. This particular deer has climbers painted on it and is part of a town-wide display of deer painted by local artists. If you see "Rocky" at a friend's house.... Turn the dirtbag in.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Apr 29, 2014
If anyone found a custom, rusty-looking, long nut tool, please contact me. Last seen at NW Buttress, suicide rock. Made it myself; kinda like it. Thanks!
By runout
Jun 17, 2014
Is this area still closed from the fire?
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jun 20, 2014
@Kevin No...People's been climbing there for over a year now
By Bart Young
From: Jackson, WY
Mar 14, 2015
I am hoping to be in Tahquitz around March 23. Me and a friend would like to spend a couple of weeks climbing in the area and have never been before. Is spending a couple of weeks at Tahquitz feasible? Is camping on the south ridge, then driving to Humber Park everyday and hiking going to be a pain in the ass? Any tips would be helpful.
By Bart Young
From: Jackson, WY
Mar 27, 2015
Yesterday I arrived with a friend to to Idyllwild. We went to the south ridge, met a couple who were camping in their van at a HUGE campsite. After chatting with them for a minute they invited us to share the HUGE campsite with them. Today, after an enjoyable rest day in Idyllwild, a FS Service stops at the site and asks my friend who he is with (I was away hiking). He responds that he is camping/climbing with a friend. The officer informs him that the sites are intended for "one party only" and that the people in the van were there first, we must leave. Despite the couple in the van telling her (the officer) that we were fine to camp with them, she insisted we just be out by 10am tomorrow morning. What the hell? I've never heard of anything like this! You aren't allowed to share you're campsite with who you see fit on a NATIONAL FOREST?!! Is this legal?
By Rich zz
From: california
Jun 23, 2015
can you walk off routes for tahquitz (fingertrips particularly) or are they 2 rope rappel?
By Nomad MGR
Oct 9, 2015
Can one of the Administrators of this page provide a link to where they found information that confirms that Adventure Passes are no longer needed at Humber Park?

It is my understanding that Humber Park and Lake Fulmor are the only places where these passes are still required. It would be appreciated if there is a link to an official USFS page that states what their policy is.

Thank you.
By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 9, 2015
A quick phone call to the San Bernardino National Forest Headquarters in San Bernardino (the Idyllwild Ranger Station apparently has better things to do than answer the phone) confirmed that yes indeed an Adventure Pass is required to park in Humber Park.

The web-link to areas requiring Adventure Passes is currently under construction so alas no link to post.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Oct 9, 2015
Never had a "pass" to park in the parking lot. Not sure what one would expect by calling a person who's livelihood depends on the revenue generated from stating that a pass is necessary....
By Rich and Natalie
Nov 13, 2015
I was there today and saw a sign that states an Adventure Pass is required. So I would be safe and get an Adventure Pass
By lozo bozo
Jan 22, 2016
I've seen cars parked at humber park with anti adventure pass bumper stickers and have never seen any of them get ticketed. Don't waste your money
By other
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 15, 2016
Ive never bought an "adventure" pass anywhere since they began 10+ years ago. Ive never got a ticket. My understanding is that the ticket is really a warning and action is only taken on repeat ticket getters. Also I've read that a judge has ruled they are illegal and/or unenforceable. Anyone get a ticket and where?
By x15x15
Jul 15, 2016
Guess I was one of those repeat offenders. I have tossed plenty of those warnings over the years, and one time I received a notice to appear. I fought the law, but the law won...

The Humber Park fees are a joke. A couple picnic tables, a couple stupid info-boards, striped parking lanes, and a shitter that's not cleaned often enough is going to justify a parking pass, according to the courts.
By Tradoholic
Jul 18, 2016
I placed some webcams to check out the weather or shade conditions. Check out climbidy.com I also added a link to a bolt replacement database.

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