Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FA - Chuck Wilts, Don Wilson, John and Ruth Mendenhall 1952. FFA Bob Kamps and Mark Powell 1967
Page Views: 18,360 total · 114/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A distinct line the forms the left margin of the West face Bulge. From the FBT ledge, climbing up and to the right up easy ledges to establish a belay (4th class). Or Take the Vampire and move up and left to establish a belay (5.7). The first pitch is long and the Crux. Pull a 2 little bulge/roof (10b) to a good ledge. the 2nd is a thin finger crack on the left wall to a small stance (5.8). The 3rd a long pitch lieback the corner and around a small overhang, then move up and right to turn the summit overhanges (pitch 4)


thin to 3 inches


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Awesome route that follows a great line. The crux pitch, in my opinion, is definitely stout although the gear is good. I also found the ending 5.7 pitch rather exciting - at least the way I climbed it.

We started at the base of The Trough, and then angled left towards a tree and a belay. The next pitch (From Bad Traverse) continued angling up and left and eventually gained a good ledge to the right of the obvious manzanita covered ledge. CONTINUE UP TO THE NEXT LEDGE PAST THIS FIRST LEDGE (up a 5.7-5.8 crack). I belayed on the first ledge and regretted it on the crux pitch - too much rope drag!

P1 (5.10b) - The crux pitch is long and goes at 5.10b (in my opinion). Work up the left trending crack tackling bulges, thin cracks, and wide sections as they present themselves. Eventually step left into another crack and head upwards to a belay stance near a sloping ledge and below twin cracks on the left wall.

P2 (5.8) - Climb the fun, twin cracks for about 70 feet to a nice stance.

p3 (5.7) - Despite the grade I found this a challenging pitch! I'm still not 100% sure I was on route, but the rock was clean so I assume I was. If anyone knows let me know! Head up to and layback the wide, left facing corner to a roof. Pass the roof on the left and continue up a small crack. Place some gear and make an awkward, steep move up and left to gain another crack. The pro is tricky in the next section. Move up and right (I managed to get a good steel nut somewhere around here in a pin scar) and along the undercling until you get to an obvious break. Get some pro here. Climb up the jugs to the left and onto a good ledge. Now the sting in the tail! I had tremendous rope drag here, and the next 15 feet of "5.7" slab climbing was relatively terrifying with the rope drag and 40 foot leg breaking fall potential.... but it worked out :) Was I on route? The rope drag was horrible despite good use of long slings, and the slab is featureless... so use caution.

Gear - Double camalots #0.5-#3. A #4 camalot could be useful. Good helping of nuts including small wires and/or steel nuts. One set of TCUs. Bring LOTS of long slings! Sep 4, 2006
Aaron S
Aaron S  
Heh, it's been a while since I climbed this one but I had almost the exact same experience as Andy on the last pitch. Bad rope drag, looking up at a featureless slab facing a bad fall, and wondering if I was on route. I ended up deciding to back track a bit and head around to the left, which ended up being casual.

First couple pitches are stellar. Dec 19, 2006
San Diego, CA
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
Just did this yesterday and wished I had done more research (I did basically none). Here are my notes.

We skimped on the large gear (#3 and #4 C4) which was a mistake. This climb requires the gamut of sizes. Black Alien to #4. Throw in some micro nuts for good measure.

Andy has it right for the start "CONTINUE UP TO THE NEXT LEDGE PAST THIS FIRST LEDGE (up a 5.7-5.8 crack)." This ledge is above and right of the large tree. The crack he mentions is splitter.

There was an unexpected and delicate traverse left on the crux pitch. We did this around where the crack widens to #4 C4. Just know that at some point you will want to switch to the left crack.

For the last pitch, after you pass the roof you will wonder where to go. The way is left for a few more moves. I started out right past a horn which was definitely not safe. After heading left you will either head up and right to rope-drag hell like Andy and I, or may be lucky enough to find a way that is "casual" like Aaron. Maybe Aaron was just smart and slung his gear long.

On P1 I got a great view of a woman beginning the traverse / flake pitch of The Vampire. Blank vertical slab with her climbing right up it - great photo if you have some buddies willing to coordinate. May 5, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Climbed it again on 6/9/08. More notes....

  • Shady until 1pm in early Summer
  • I brought nuts, micro nuts, double cams from TCUs to #3 camalot. I brought a #4 this time. Next time, I'll replace the #4 with a #3.5
  • Belaying on the higher ledge as mentioned above is much better for the first pitch. Way less rope drag and breaks up the longer crux pitch. We got here in two long pitches from the base of "The Trough". Expect some route finding challenges if you are not familiar with the terrain.
  • Crux pitch is still stout... 10b IMO.
  • Last pitch. There is only one way to go, I investigated all other options and there aren't any. Up the lieback, around the roof, up the crack, jog left, then up and right. Keep going right and then step up on to the ledge. I extended everything as best I could and the rope drag still SUCKED. Rather than fight the drag on the 5.7 slab, I just pulled up 20 feet of slack, held it my hand, and padded up the slab. Way better than fighting the drag, and it is a NO FALL zone anyways... so what does it matter if I have 20' of rope in my hand :)
Jun 9, 2008
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
At the top of the 5.8 splitter crack pitch (#3) you can finish up the climb on "The Price Of Fear" 5.10c. Go right from the belay and follow the natural features to the arete (lots of exposure) you can get in some small nuts and cams for protection as you make your way to the arete. After wards you have 3 bolts to the top, I believe this route was bolted on lead so after the 2nd bolt on the arete you are looking at wild runouts on 10c slab with 500-600 hundred feet of air beneath you. Very spicy. Aug 14, 2008
Mar' Himmerich
Santa Fe, NM
Mar' Himmerich   Santa Fe, NM
The comments really make me glad I did this route because I've never really appreciated having done it. My partner and I were so psyched to get on it, it's strange. because we blazed it so fast, the only part I remember was placing a old #4 stopper at the little "V" crux — where you step up and left with a lot of exposure.
We had a basic rack of hexes and stoppers, #9 hex being the biggest. I'd like to do it again, now. Thanks! Aug 26, 2008
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
The rope drag spoken of on the last pitch can be avoided. I linked most of pitch 2 and 3 together with a 60m rope (I belayed right before the runout-slab topout, at a sloping stance underneath the final overlap) and only stopped there because I ran out of rope, not because of rope drag. As you approach the short roof traverse on the third pitch (which immediately follows a section of liebacking up a 3" crack/corner), avoid the temptation to place gear during the last eight feet or so of the corner, and when you place a piece under the roof, put a long sling on it so it won't get sucked into the crack as it turns the corner. I placed a #2 (yellow) Metolius TCU here. Oct 11, 2009
great route. i found the best way to eliminate rope drag on 3rd pitch was to place bomber piece 15 feet or so below roof with runner then a 3.5 in the corner then a .3 directly below where you pull the roof (long sling) then take out the 3.5 (the 3.5 was only used momentaraly as a mental piece while i placed the .3) with this set up i had zero rope drag
Sep 14, 2010
Santa Monica, Ca
JaredVagy   Santa Monica, Ca
Climbed on July 9th 2011. Great route. Here is what I feel is a good way to climb it with a 70 meter rope:
Approach Pitch: Scramble up some rocks and climb a rope stretch double pitch with a 70 meter rope to the top of the 2nd pedestal mentioned in other reviews.
P1 and P2: These link very easily. P1 takes bigger gear, right after it gets wider, step around and transition to P2 which is a finger crack on the left hand wall. I placed a #3 high with a double runner and had no rope drag.
P3. Commit to the roof; it is all there. I believe you can place a #3 under the rood with a tripple runner and have no rope drag. Once you pull the roof, pass a pin scar, trend up slightly to the left into a mild short traverse where we saw a sunbleached sling that may or may not be there. Then trend up and right. As things mellow out you can equalize 2 C3's before you pull a 2 move 5.7 slab the summit. It was pretty mellow if the correct route is found. It seems to be very scary if you go directly upwards from the pin scar.

I had a 3.5 but did not place it.

Hope this helps. Jul 10, 2011
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
This route was rated 5.9 for like fifty years. We did it in high school and thought, Damn,. 5.9 is kinder stout.

JL Jul 20, 2011
Avoid the "From Bad Traverse" method of getting to Super Pooper.
Waste of time. Do the Stand Up Flake as an approach pitch. Its a good pitch of easy 5.9, with laybacking, jamming, and even a bit of easy chimney. Gets you reasonably close to the base of Super Pooper. Aug 6, 2011
Lassitude 33
Randy   Lassitude 33
Correction to FA Info:

Should be Bob Kamps (not Bob Kemps). Aug 8, 2011
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Pitch 1: I thought the crux moves were fairly stout (10b) (although short lived). We were a bit unsure about whether or not it was the left or right crack. It is the one on the right and it gets a bit wide at the top (secure jams found deep).

Pitch 3: Not as mind boggling as some of the previous posts make it out to be. Head up to the obvious roof on your left and pull it to the left. Head up past the roof and it seems pretty blank, but up and about 4-6 feet to the left you can access the ramp/ledge directly above you via jugs. You can protect on the ramp (crack with pin scars). If you do place pro here, you should probably back clean a couple of the pieces as you continue up and right to reduce rope drag potential for the 2 spicy-ish .7 slab moves at the top.

I was cold on this route (October in the shade), so I will withhold severe judgment, but I did not think this was such an amazing line (3/3 stars). Still fun but not as much as I built it up to be in my head. Limited/weak exposure until the last pitch, and the 20' of finger crack on P2 was cool, but it's only 15'-20' up to easy broken climbing. Oct 10, 2011
just finish this route with the Price of Fear pitch, you won't be disappointed. and if you were looking for a little more full value climbing on super pooper, this is the way to top out. i don't understand why folks still go the original way... Jun 19, 2012
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
Currently sporting two fixed nuts through the crux section. Almost feels like a clip-up.

Sequential and burly crux moves. Took some thinking to piece it together, but fortunately there is a great no-hands rest right before the business. As recommended by others above, do The Price of Fear to cap off an already **** climb! Aug 27, 2012
Easy 10, yea a little run out on the 5.7 finish, I pulled the lip and got in a white tri-cam and a purple Master Cam but they weren't very good. Trust yer feet. Sep 16, 2012
Irvine, CA
generationfourth   Irvine, CA
There was an unexpected and delicate traverse left on the crux pitch. We did this around where the crack widens to #4 C4. Just know that at some point you will want to switch to the left crack.

Don't listen to this beta! I got to this point and stood there for 5 minutes staring at this traverse over. Eventually I just continued up the easy and enjoyable "semi-chimney" with hands in the back of it and then I got to a horizontal crack (that took a yellow tcu) and walked the crack casually over bringing the pitch to an end. I need to stop reading mp beta before climbs... they always screw up my intuition. Sep 8, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Just did this route yesterday and here are my comments.

double rack from .5-3 with #4 and set of TCUs, small set of nuts to protect the crux 10a/b move (I placed a purple TCU instead). LOTS OF SLINGS

We did the entire route in 4 pitches using a 60 meter rope starting at the base of the Trough

Pitch 1:
Start directly at the beginning of The Trough, climb about 30-40 feet of the route until you can start traversing left, towards the Vampire. Past the 1st large tree with slings and keep trending left and up to the next obvious large ledge with another large tree and slings. This is the bad traverse area. Belay at the large tree

Pitch 2:
From the bad traverse head left and up, climbing large blocks that are easily protected to the first large bushy area. Climb about 5 feet up from the bushy ledge and make a sharp left turn to a next ledge where the actually start of Super Pooper goes at. I back cleaned my pieces to prevent rope drag here. This ledge is right of an obvious manzanita covered face. CONTINUE up this corner 5.7-5.8 crack and past another ledge. You should end up about 15-20 feet below the crux of super pooper. Under a small roof, wedge chock stone and a fixed piton with a quick link on it. Belay from here.

Pitch 3:
Past the piton, pull the roof to what the guide book descrbies a delicate move left. Pull 2 buldges to a left facing corner that you kind of sqeeze into. (#1 size corner. Ones this end you traverse left on a small ledge into a right facing corner. CONTINUE up this for another 15 feet and build your belay, . At the bottom of the twin cracks.

Pitch 4:
Climb the obvious twin cracks on the left wall to the very top. use A LOT of slings. My partner ended up with a lot of rope drag and did the same slab finish Andy Laakmann describes. When I got to the top, I could see why it was so spicy because of the potential leg breaking fall. But it's only 2-3 moves of 5.7ish slab moves to good holds. May 29, 2014
Phil Esra
  5.10b/c R
Phil Esra  
  5.10b/c R
I just had the identical experience to Andy Laakman, complete with 10 feet of slack in my hand. A little terrifying, I thought. A couple of tenuous moves with a guaranteed horrible fall. Plan carefully to reduce the rope drag.

The routefinding at the top is also tricky--the terrain is quite complex, which is not even hinted at on the topo. Go left at the giant horizontal horn above the first roof.

I followed the crux pitch and thought it was harder than 10b. My most recent point of reference was following the 10b Johnny Quest the day before--not even in the same ballpark.

Great line, 4 of 4 stars. Jun 30, 2014
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
The second roof crux was the only hard move for me. Felt like a .10c move for someone with small hands and long legs. The rest was a very comfortable .10a on the first pitch and the rest was cruiser. Great climb! Sep 8, 2015
In my opinion, the standard way to do this climb should be:

P1 Standup Flake (5.9): A fairly direct way to the base of Super Pooper. Fun movement and much better than romping up from the Trough.

P2, P3 Super Pooper: The two best pitches on Super Pooper.

P4 Price of Fear (5.10c): An exciting, well bolted, slab finish to an already fantastic climb.

Linking Super Pooper with these other two climbs adds tremendous value and makes every pitch something special. This linkup is one of my favorite climbs on Tahquitz. Jun 27, 2016
Bradley Gorsline
Pasadena, CA
Bradley Gorsline   Pasadena, CA
Agreed with Cole, I thought the Standup Flake, Super Pooper, Price of Fear link was the way to go all quality pitches. Also I thought Super Pooper was a fair bit harder than Price of Fear, so if you thought Super Pooper was fine definitely hop on Price of Fear. Jul 3, 2016
Gotta echo the previous comments here. Standup flake to Super Pooper to Price of Fear is definitely the maneuver, and Price of Fear is certainly the highlight of the linkup.

I have to say, I found the crux pitch of Super Pooper to be very difficult. It didn't feel much easier than the Bat Crack (without the direct start) to me, so I'm tempted to call it 10c/d. Sep 27, 2016
Ivan LaBianca
Redlands, CA
  5.10b R
Ivan LaBianca   Redlands, CA
  5.10b R
I led all pitches and personally found the slab section mentally much harder than the .10 crux. The rest of the route is great however and if you happen to enjoy runout slab (I don't!) you'll probably like the last pitch too, otherwise, I'd recommend cutting right near the top of the twin cracks and climbing the last pitch on Price of Fear. I was looking over jealously at the nicely spaced bolts on Price of Fear to my right as I was pulling out extra slack to traverse the delicate slab finish off a sketchy .4 equalized with a .2 X4 in a pin scar. Maybe there's an easier way somewhere? I followed what appeared to be the line of least resistance but you are looking at a serious pendulum fall into who knows what, just tried not to think about it. R-rated the way we went and if the last pieces pulled who knows what. Don't fall. Apr 27, 2017
Welcome to Idy slab Ivan. That finish is 5.7 and not considered R because the moves are so much easier than the rest of the route. You will get used to that :) Apr 28, 2017
Derek Field
Derek Field   California
Concise P3 directions: After pulling around the roof, traverse 10 feet left to hidden knobs that gain the easy ramp above. Follow the ramp up and right for a ways, until you can step over the final headwall. Once over, equalize a couple TCUs in pinscars at your feet and friction up onto the slab. Sep 26, 2017
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
I remember doing this pitch very early on in my climbing career, when the route was rated 5.9, and when we went to do new routes out at Josh we used Super Pooper as the benchmark for 5.9 so many of the Josh climbs owe their sandbag rating to this fine route, and to Bob Kamps who gave it the 5.9 tag. Not even. Nov 28, 2017
curt sanders
Lee Vining
curt sanders   Lee Vining
Really enjoyed this route every time I’ve done it.. especially the first 2 pitches. May 4, 2018
Ero Sennin
San Diego, CA
Ero Sennin   San Diego, CA
This is a very, very fun route. It's just a shame it's not longer or it'd be better than Whodunit. The route's reputation for being burly is unwarranted in my opinion. The crux is short, the rest stances are many, and the jams are all solid. The Standup Flake leading to this route, and the Open Book are both harder in my opinion. 5.9, I'm being totally serious. This is the only route at Tahquitz I've done where I thought the rating was below the consensus or current guidebook.

The P2 finger crack is also not 5.8. You can practically stick your finger in anywhere in any direction and it'll stick, and just walk up the numerous footholds. Sep 30, 2018
master gumby  
fun but a lot of hype on this route. If you don't link this with the stand up flake and price of fear you'll be looking at 100 feet of good climbing. No extra big gear is warrented. I like climbs that are jam parties so I felt this could be 5.9+, .10a but I suppose if jams aren't your specialty you'll find this route more difficult. Sep 30, 2018