Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Joe Fitschen and Royal Robbins, September 1957, FFA: Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps, 1966
Page Views: 48,886 total · 279/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 18, 2006 with improvements by Sean Cooney
Admins: C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


385 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

While the guide quotes 8 pitches it can easily be condensed to 5 pitches. The cracks on this climb are stunning and very straight forward. There is quite a variety from low angle laybacking to hand cracks and eventually a chimney. A crux lies at the exit to a chimney where you get a bomber fist jam and have to work your feet up and get out of the top of the chimney. There is one bolted belay and all the rest are gear anchors. There are at least 2 good belay ledges.

Protection

A standard rack will suffice, but a grey or purple camalot are helpful for those not comfortable running it out on this rather sustained climb. After going over the roof on the last pitch trend up right on slabby ground to the top. Meandering cracks will lead you to the top of Tahquitz.  Alternatively, simply follow the crack that trends slightly left to the top.

Photos