Avg: 3.7 from 320 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Fitschen and Royal Robbins, September 1957, FFA: Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps, 1966|
|Page Views:||43,507 total · 280/month|
|Shared By:||Luke Stefurak on Feb 18, 2006|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
While the guide quotes 8 pitches it can easily be condensed to 5 pitches. The cracks on this climb are stunning and very straight forward. There is quite a variety from low angle laybacking to hand cracks and eventually a chimney. A crux lies at the exit to a chimney where you get a bomber fist jam and have to work your feet up and get out of the top of the chimney. There is one bolted belay and all the rest are gear anchors. There are at least 2 good belay ledges.
A standard rack will suffice, but a grey or purple camalot are helpful for those not comfortable running it out on this rather sustained climb. After going over the roof on the last pitch trend up right on slabby ground to the top. Meandering cracks will lead you to the top of Tahquitz. Alternatively, simply follow the crack that trends slightly left to the top.