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Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

California

Description

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent.

 Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock; the north side of Tahquitz, however, is notorious for loose rock and has been the scene of numerous accidents over the years - perhaps best to treat this as an alpine area and plan accordingly.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

  • Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception.
  •  It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There

  • Before driving, check with the Caltrans Highway Information Network (CHIN) 1-800.427.7623 or visit CA.gov for current highway conditions. 

From San Diego/Temecula: Take Highway 79 South through Temecula to Highway 371; head north on Highway 74 and north on Highway 243 in Mountain Center. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

From LA & Orange Counties (Route 1): Head East on I-10 to Monterey Ave. in Palm Desert; follow Monterey until it becomes Highway 74 in Palm Desert; follow Highway 74 up the mountain until you hit Highway 243 in Mountain Center, go right. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

From LA & Orange Counties (Route 2): Head East on I-10 to I-215 South; exit on Highway 79 South through Temecula to Highway 371 to Highway 74 North, then turn right on Highway 243 in Mountain Center. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

Weather Webcams

Weather

Guidebook

Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks by Bob Gaines, published in 2013, is the most current guidebook to the area and includes many of the best routes.

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines, published in 2001, is the most comprehensive guidebook to the area.

Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

Day Pass - Costs: $5 per day
Annual Pass - Costs: $30 Annually

America the Beautiful Pass will be honored.

Where do you buy a pass?

1) Visitor's Center or browse the Adventure Pass vendor list for locations near you that sell.

2) Order passes directly from the Forest Service by phone 909-382-2622, 2623, or 2621 using a credit/debit card.
Monday - Friday (except on holidays) 8:00am - 4:30pm PST

3) Order passes directly from the Forest Service by mail (takes forever, hard pass).

San Bernardino National Forest
Pass Program Headquarters - Pass Orders
602 S. Tippecanoe Avenue
San Bernardino, CA 92408-2607

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tahquitz Rock BITD
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(left to right) Harry Daley, Mike Sherrick, Yvon Chouinard, Arkel Erb, Bill "Dolt" Fuerer, and Tom Frost 
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Photo from Ellen & Charles Wilts Collection
[Hide Photo] Tahquitz Rock BITD (left to right) Harry Daley, Mike Sherrick, Yvon Chouinard, Arkel Erb, Bill "Dolt" Fuerer, and Tom Frost Photo from Ellen & Charles Wilts Collection
Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickable, 8/08.  Photo: Kevin Powell.
[Hide Photo] Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickable, 8/08. Photo: Kevin Powell.
A great end to a great day in Idyllwild
[Hide Photo] A great end to a great day in Idyllwild
Milky Way seen from the campground in Idyllwild.
[Hide Photo] Milky Way seen from the campground in Idyllwild.
Whoa.
[Hide Photo] Whoa.
Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch of Super Pooper while David Sampson belays.
[Hide Photo] Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch of Super Pooper while David Sampson belays.
Gary's Mountain Meats & Deli, Idyllwild
[Hide Photo] Gary's Mountain Meats & Deli, Idyllwild
Most of the routes on Tahquitz Rock in a single image, part of the Mont Blanc Lines poster series. Route info in the caption.
[Hide Photo] Most of the routes on Tahquitz Rock in a single image, part of the Mont Blanc Lines poster series. Route info in the caption.
Cahuilla pictographs, Idyllwild
[Hide Photo] Cahuilla pictographs, Idyllwild
A unique perspective of both Tahquitz and Suicide from Devil's Slide trail.
[Hide Photo] A unique perspective of both Tahquitz and Suicide from Devil's Slide trail.
Tahquitz after a major 2023 storm.
[Hide Photo] Tahquitz after a major 2023 storm.
Huge lenticular cloud formation developing over Tahquitz, May 2011
[Hide Photo] Huge lenticular cloud formation developing over Tahquitz, May 2011

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve W Smith
Groveland, CA
[Hide Comment] Just spent 4 great days at Idyllwild climbing Tahquitz. Prepare to spend $20 per night at Idyllwild County Campground. $25 for the other campground. It has pay showers (50 cents for 3 minutes). If you can, bring your own firewood!!! It's $7.00 for one round split in quarters!
The general store opens at 5:30am. Great place to get a hot breakfast and watch the world cup as you plan your day. They bake fresh bread daily and I highly recommend getting your sandwich for lunch on the summit here! I had the best Italian sub of my life! I'll attach pics of the menu so you have a good idea.
If you plan to shop for groceries though, go down the street to the village grocery store. The prices are much lower! Much lower.
The guys at Nomad, the local climbing shop, are very helpful with any gear, but especially with local beta.
Lastly, there is rough camping in 2 locations near the town, but we found it pretty dusty ground, not great shade, and opted to pay for camping. Your opinion may vary. Daytime temps in June were 75 and nights were 50-55 degrees. Perfect!! Jul 1, 2010
[Hide Comment] Beta for climbing in a party of three.

youtube.com/watch?v=XvJK5Iu…

1930s film featured climbing in Tahquitz. Jul 23, 2010
[Hide Comment] For those sport climbers who feel a need to bag on Tahquitz, learn your history. The YDS was created here, so odds are if you think you need to add a couple of grades here the areas you usually climb are underrated.

Tahquitz has some truly historic routes, including the first 5.9 in the country. Yes, it's not sport climbing. No kidding! What it is is some of the best, most accessible trad climbing in the world. Super clean rock and great weather. Jul 5, 2011
[Hide Comment] I placed some webcams to check out the weather or shade conditions. Check out climbidy.com I also added a link to a bolt replacement database. Jul 18, 2016
[Hide Comment] For rest day swimming skip Lake Hemet and head down to Lake Perris Reservoir. Aug 20, 2018