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On the first pitch.
This is a great climb, classic Lumpy flared crack. Three pitches (each about 100-120') of pretty consistent 5.8, followed by one pitch of easy rock to reach the summit. The first 40' or so of this climb are shared with 'Climb of the Ancient Mariner'. From the approach trail, climb the ledge systems up until the ledges change to rock....
P1 - Climb the corner for the first 40 - 50 feet, then continue straight up where Climb of the Ancient Mariner goes left to the bolt & roof. Continue up the cracks / flakes for the better part of a ropelength until a 'good' belay spot is found. Take your pick - jam deep in the crack, lay it back, or find features on the face. There is no real ledge to be found, so I suggest just finding the best place to build the anchor and go for it.... Gillett's guide says to belay 'level with a roof on the left'.
P2 - Continue straight up from the belay, working a classic Lumpy flared crack. Try using the crack for the right side & face / edge with your left side. Aim towards the right side of a small roof. Find a belay somewhere below or at the roof. Again, no real ledges to speak of, so pick the best spot. Referencing Gillett, this pitch is 'hard to protect'. Since I followed I cannot give too strong an opinion; I think gear is there, but you might have to hunt for it.
P3 - If the belay was below the roof, climb to it, then traverse left under it. I felt this part to be a bit tricky. As soon as you exit the roof to the left, climbing becomes much easier but you'll probably enjoying some rope drag. Continue straight up until the drag becomes a drag. Still no great belay ledges, but cracks abound - pick a spot & build a station.
P4 - Easy terrain to the summit.
Descent - Walk off to the back, then wrap around climber's right down the gully. There are great views of the Left Book climbs from the descent.
Standard Lumpy rack. You can find placements for big stuff (4") if you're carrying it - but not needed.
Joe following the exciting roof traverse on P2.
Starting the first pitch.
CM following the 9+ variation to the third pitch.
Pitch 2 - crux corner.
John leading p3 (9+ var is the overhanging flake t...
|By John McNamee|
From: Littleton, CO
Jul 29, 2002
The description is pretty accurate. Belay about level with the roof on the left. It is an awkward stance but a couple of small wires and a mid sized cam will enable you to create a good solid anchor. For the next pitch, I had no difficulty getting good gear, using wires and mid size cams. The moves around the roof are pretty nice and overall this is a three star route.
|By S. Kimball|
Oct 5, 2002
Best beta, have a 60m rope.Take pitch #1 55m to a small foot ledge where white bull quartz has outcropped and just below SORCERER'S APPRENTICE, the dihedral that branches left. Great stopper and small cam anchors on the right. Pitch #2, 50m and 5.8+. Pitch #3, 30m and 5.0. But for perhaps the finest pitch on the Bookend do the harder path: the APPRENTICE. Four distinct 5.9 sections, add 'em up: lower in the dihedral, above where the dihedral fades, the face up to the last bolt (a resident 20+ year old, buttonhead) on ANCIENT MARINER/LABOR..and the handcrack finish just right of ANCIENT..SK.
|By Mike Storeim|
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 5, 2003
The best place to belay on the first pitch is just above the roof. There is a big chickenhead there and a few feet above, in a small pod, you can get in two bomber medium cams and a couple of wires. From here, you can climb to a stance just above the roof with a 70 meter rope and a bit of drag. If you are using a 60 meter, belay just below where you traverse left under the roof. The second pitch protects well with small wires and cams, although up higher you will need some larger pro. The upper half of the second pitch is slightly awkward and if you aren't willing to commit to the layback, will seem much harder than 5.8. Another stellar old school route that I don't mind going back to again and again.
|By David Conlin|
May 23, 2004
The "difficult to protect" pitch is really not that difficult to protect. However, you must take placements when you can, because in between good placements there are no placement options.
|By Bill Gibbs|
From: Andover, Ks.
Aug 17, 2004
I found a satisfactory belay just to the right of "...Ancient Mariner's first belay as I planned to do the "Apprentice" variation. This was my partner's first trad and multi-pitch route; so I chose to improvise on pitch two instead. I climbed past the "Apprentice" variation dihedral, and when the "Sorcerer's'" deep, flared crack opened back up to the left about 30' below the roof, I traversed out left on the face towards the top of "Apprentice's" diminishing crack. I found a good small cam placement in the crack and down climbed the crack about 4'. I then traversed out left to join the last part of "Climb of the Ancient Mariner", clipping its last bolt (which has been replaced since I climbed it two years ago). This variation kept my inexperienced partner out of the under cling roof section where I thought she might have more difficulty. I used a 4'sewn sling on my last placement in the "Sorcerer's" crack to keep the rope drag to a minimum. (5.8 face climbing for this short variation/linkup.) I give this only 2 stars...maybe the roof under cling is 3 stars, but I can't see it bumping up the rest of the climb to a full 3 stars.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 17, 2004
Some gear beta: If you do the 55m P1 option, the anchor can be #0.5 & #0.75 Camalots, wires #8 & 11 BD. It is just above a small ledge where yer partner can stand and swap gear. P2 has a belay at about 32m just after the end of the dihedral, no rope drag. #2,3 Camalots useful. Overall, single set of cams blue Alien to #4 Friend or Camalot with doubles in the #0.5-#2 Camalot range, wires, #9 hex can be useful. Thank goodness it's low angle!
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+ PG13
When we climbed this route, we did the variation of the 3rd pitch that climbs directly over the overhang instead of traversing left to the dihedral. It's significantly harder and more aesthetic this way. We rated the variation at 5.9+/5.10a. Others have called it a 5.10c move going over the roof, but I'd disagree.