Pentapitch 

I love this climb! Pitch 1 follows a low-angle dihedral, over a tree stump, and follows 2 discontinuous cracks (crux protected by a pin) to the belay ledge. There are a bomber set of anchors. I'm not sure about pitch 2, because about 15 feet up the cool hand crack, I traversed to a crack right of Pentapitch and followed it up and left, around a roof, and belayed at a tree. One more short, low-angle dihedral takes you to the short hike to the final 2 pitches. The next pitch is a left-angling ramp that takes killer pro and has some cool exposure, where there are 2 bolts to use as anchors. The final pitch is the crux and is killer! From the anchors of p4, you traverse a thin face left about 10 feet to th crack and clip a pin. The next 30-40 feet are fingers over a slight bulge. The pitch is protected by small cams and nuts. The exposure to your left is wild! Twoards the top the guidebook said there was a bolt, but I didn't see it. I opted to go slightly left and then traverse right to the anchors. This climb is phenomenal! Rap from the anchors on p5 and we rapped off the climb near the top of Sasquatch.Enjoy!

There is a bolt on the last pitch. It looks brand new, so it has probably been replaced since the comment by Jonathan. Pitch 5 climbs a thin finger crack, then works slightly right up a flake. On top of this flake is where the bolt is. The climb finishes up with a slight angling to the left.

Recently repeated this climb....and had so much fun! What a beautiful spot....away from the crowds....views of the Pawn....sound of water and birds....really peaceful, not always the case at the Gate!

Regarding the last pitch....yes, it's a bit thin and spicy without the pin. But I wiggled in 2 small stoppers where the pin would be, and equalized them....somewhat awkward, but probably as strong as an old fixed pin!One more move and you get nice microcams.

Been on my list for a while and I'm stoked I finally did it. First and last pitch are the best. I was worried reading all the talk about the yanked pin on the last pitch but... don't think it needed to be there. It was fine. After the bolt I wasn't sure if I should follow that seam up right to an undercling looking flake or just angle left. I angled left almost to the ledge, thought it was too easy and I must be chickening out so I climbed bach down to the bolt and tried right. That seemed more difficult than 5.8! Anyone know which way u go?

Great line. 3rd pitch really hurts the climb and the scramble to the 4th/5th pitch is doesn't help. I was feeling it on that pin-less move on the 5th pitch, but if you just focus and remember that it's only 5.8...Whether you go right or left after the bolt on P5, go left officially. I also went right, by accident, and that is harder than 5.8 and I had run out of the right size gear to place.

To prevent people cussing me out, I gave it 3 stars, but IMHO it is barely 3 stars due to the preceding negative factors.

Oh what the hell... 2 Stars.

run pitches 4 and 5 together for max value on this wonderful LCC classic. Lets keep the pins out and, and the flavor up!

With a bit of simul at the beginning (or a 70m), you can even do this in two pitches. "Bipitch"

The last 2 pitches are amazing! My partner called these "slabby and insecure". Damn right, a serious lead for sure.

follow the topo, go left at the bolt on the last pitch. (and clip the bolt).

Ruckman guide says it all, "Must-do climb." The first pitch alone is the most aesthetic 5.6 I've ever climbed. The last two pitches were fabulous. Are the second and third pitches so awful that you forget how wonderful the rest of the climbing is? I still haven't climbed them. Besides, you can skip those two pitches by climbing Sasquatch, which is probably the best 5.9 in the canyon!

Anyhow, if you're in a hurry to get down, don't mind downclimbing and you happen to have a 70 meter rope, you can simul-rappel from the top anchor to a ledge just above a tree about 20 feet above the huge ledge between the third and fourth pitches. Downclimb the handcrack past the tree to the huge ledge. From here, you can downclimb the gully to the west and cool off in the Coalpit stream.

With a 60 meter rope I like to climb this as 3 pitches.

"pitch 1" is to the chains left of the tree.
From there "pitch 2" can go to the big ledge/belay spot for "pitch 3", which is the sweet and heady finger crack.

P-pitch. One of the most enjoyable areas to climb in LCC in the summer, bar none.

The pins have all been gone for some time now, several summers ago someone cut down the remains of a small shrub on P1... things change sometimes. Doesn't make it any less fun now, does it?

Every summer it's one of the routes I look forward to soloing (except P5!!) or taking n00bish friends up. There are some great variations to this climb... The P1 (sling the tree long, traverse right 25')--->Sasquatch-->Japanese Terraces covers pretty much all the more popular permutations, combining three routes in one for a nice afternoon of cruiser climbing. Time it right, and you should have shade most of the day.

For the record on P5: Clip the bolt, follow the under-cling flake out right. Anything less and you're not getting full-value... the only one you're cheating is YOURSELF! ;)

like most people have said, im really glad i finally got on this thing. I did the first pitch then climbed jappenese terraces to the big ledge. Then I linked the last 2 pitches together and it was amazing. the moves to the crack from the chains were a definite crux and the finger crack was awsome with some of the best locks ive ever gotten. I clipped the bolt at the top and went right as i had forgotten the topo and felt going left was somewhat of a cop out on the last 10 feet of climbing, it didnt feel much harder then the moves into the final crack and added to the route alot. classic.

beware of the chocolate eating squirrels at the bottom. they opened my pack and took my snickers!

Yes, squirrels managed to open my pack, which was hanging from a tree, take a clif bar and then zip the pack back up. Crafty those squirrels... .

I tried to lead this route but backed off the last pitch. Does anyone have some beta for how to protect the hard moves just after the belay ledge?

It's been a while, but I recall placing a #5 or #6 Black Diamond stopper in the thin crack to the left of the belay. It was mildly strenuous to place, as I remember.

what do you mean belay ledge? like the huge platform at the top or the 2 chains half way up? A blue tcu fits in that crack swell below the small dead tree stump root thing. after clipping those chains whats there to worry about?

This is a great climb. Take a 6 pack of beer, because you'll need it after you lead the last pitch!

Did this climb today and the best approach is to drive past gate B a little ways and park where a small dirt road goes down toward the river. Go around the old rusted gate and follow the road pretty much directly toward the river and there is a nice bridge. don't take the first small trail that cuts off the road that leads to a mountain bike trail. cross the bridge then hike down canyon a little ways.

After the 1st pitch climb Sasquatch to make this an epic outing. The traverse at the start of the last pitch looks improbable at 5.8, but trust those feet!

Ok. Here is a good description for the approach.
Park at the pull off a little after Gate B. Hike back to the gate. Follow the trail and cross the stream over the bridge. Turn right after crossing the bridge and keep hiking on the wide trail. Keep your eyes open for 2 large pine trees on your right. As soon as you see them look to your left and find a small not so obvious trail. Take this and you will be hiking away from the stream. This is a pleasant little off shoot. The trail should lead you to a boulder field. Once you start hopping the sweet boulders, try to keep moving towards your right. This should bring you 60-70 feet from the base of the climb. As you are done with boulder field you will be at the base of the climb.

And take your trash with you when you leave the place.

Climbed it today. The crux for me was avoiding a bat in a hand jam on P1. It looked mean while screaming and showing its teeth to me. Otherwise great route especially with the sasquatch pitch mixed in.

I lost some red Five Ten Moccasym climbing shoes at the bottom of the rout. They are new and still hall have the print on the bottom. If anyone found them and feels kind enough to turn them in id greatly appreciate it.

Was rockin' along and hit a super greasy spot about 150 feet up 10 feet short of a slung tree and took a 25 foot whipper. Scared the hell out of the group behind us waiting there turn. It was on my mind as I did the last pitch slab but I mustered the courage and finished it out.

Climbed this today through the Sasquatch variation. Gear to 1 Camalot should suffice, takes a lot of smaller stuff. The 5th pitch takes a #5 BD Stopper that wants to live in the pin scar that you place it in. Don't be intimidated by the moves into the crack off the belay, just follow the edges to a huge dish of a foot and you'll be fine, look for the rust stain of the pin scar, slot the nut and pull on. The route eats up stoppers. Climbed the first pitch with only stoppers.

Can't say much to the tune of the middle pitches, but Sasquatch is definitely an awesome and chill variation.

Just for the public service. Also stays in the shade on hot days. Great moderate outing!

Do it!

What is the access like to Pentapitch? All the information I can find says the pump station bridge washed out and the condemned alternate bridge by Lisa's falls. I see a couple of recent parties have climbed at Pentapitch--is there a new bridge up yet?

Drive past pump house until you see a rusty old gate and a road. Park and follow road past gate and down until you cross a bridge. Follow trail finding fresh wild raspberries until you see big pines on right and a small trail/stream on left. Follow this trail to boulder field and head right and up to the base of Pentapitch.

Definitely do Sasquatch variation as it eliminates the not so... middle pitch. For P5, like Quitiquit said, its all there just trust those feet, slide that stopper in, and keep on climbing. Pass bolt (no need to clip there is some great TCU placements) and head right for the better line that makes you understand why shoes have sticky rubber.

One of my favorites!

Really good route- did this with Sasquatch as our 2nd pitch, about as classic as it gets.

One note- Linking 4 and 5 keeps the FF2 potential down- a good idea if slab isnt your thing, as the moves off the last bolted belay are cruxy and insecure if you're not a slab climber.

This climb is easily done in 2 pitches with a 70m rope and doubles of finger sizes. Take pitch one all the way to the first big ledge system and belay at a small pine tree (with 5ft of rope left). Move the belay up 30ft to base of the second slab and climb to the final set of anchors.

Planning to be in SLC between April 20 and May 4 ...

Could this route be climbed at his time of the year ?? Any snow left of the ground ??


Thanks