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Helter Skelter 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Roth, Rich Aschert, Dave Dangle, 1988
Page Views: 849
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001

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Description 

Another fine line at one of the better walls at Shelf. This route used to be 12b in Van Horn's old book, but has been slightly downrated. Perhaps (much like the Mutant on Incredible Hulk boulder) the traffic over the years has taken the edge off of a few holds. God knows there are a few routes at Shelf where the crux is taking the pain.

To find this route, hike up the Sand Gulch canyon to the Freeform Wall. Towards the left end of the wall is a bolted chimney with red homemade hangers. This is Barney (5.9). Two bolted lines to the right is Helter Skelter. There is a very slight V-notch near the second bolt.

This is another route that can really sap your strength, especially if you don't stand up on your feet.

Crank past 7 bolts worth of very nice moves. If the razor crimp near the top is still hones, you will be the first to know. Have fun.


Protection 

7 bolts and anchors.



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By Chris Archer
Mar 11, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

If there is a 5.11 way to climb this route, I'd be interested in hearing what it is. It's probably not 12b as originally rated if you veer left at mid-height into the juggy corner, but the moves at the second-to-last bolt are as hard as many Shelf 12a's, and tricky to read.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent line. TALL-MAN BETA: if you have the wingspan, pushing directly through the bolt line (b/t bolt 5 and 6?) is an incredible reach to improbable thin crimp with your right, cranking on the sidepull edge with your left.

I used my partner's beautifully clever beta getting to the last bolt, requiring small crimpin' and crossi'n.

Awesomeness. Helter Skelter will make you feel like a rock star.