French's Dome Rock Climbing
Cleaning the anchor on Alpha Centauri.
Frenchs Dome is a lone andesite crag located on the flanks of Mt. Hood near the town of Zig Zag, Oregon. Routes range in height from 80ft. to 160ft., and most are well-bolted. The setting is quiet and tranquil, and invokes a feeling of solitude in the old-growth forest. Spectacular views of Mt. Hood abound, and crowds are few.
The climbing is sporty, crimpy, and pumpy. Most of the routes feature chains and steel biners on the anchors, however, a couple don't have biners, so don't always plan on them being there.
Due to heavy snowfall this area is strictly a Summer and early Fall crag. The best hours are in the afternoon when the majority of the climbs are in the shade.
To get to Frenchs Dome take Highway 26 from Portland towards Mt. Hood. In the town of Zig Zag take a left onto Lolo Pass Rd and continue for approximately 6 miles. The dome is not clearly visible from the road, but there is an obvious dirt pullout for parking on the right with a sign. Take the small trail downhill from the parking area to the dome; the majority of the climbs are on the left side of the dome as you're walking down the hill.
a NW Forest Pass is required to park here. You can get one from the ZigZag Ranger station if you don't have one.
Weather station 8.6 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in French's Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in French's Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for French's Dome:
Straw Man 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch
Oz 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
China Man 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 60'
Jackie Chan 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Road Rage 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 65'
Road Kill 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 60'
Road Face 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 55'
BSD 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 65'
Dark Man 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 65'
Psoriasis 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Featured Route For French's Dome
Psoriasis 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c OR
: Mt. Hood
: French's Dome
A true power-endurance route, Psoriasis lacks the huge "thank god" jugs that appear on other French's Dome routes. After clipping the third bolt, the business begins and you'll have to get your shakes/rests wherever you can find them! While the crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts, the route remains pumpy to the anchor.This route has been extensively cleaned, but the friable nature of the rock means that holds occasionally crumble slightly. Also, any rock to either side of the route sho...[more] Browse More Classics in OR
giants staircase starts here and goes left. there...
we belayed the start of the 3rd pitch of giant's s...
View from the top of the dome
BETA PHOTO: The top 15 ft. of rock is broken, covered in moss,...
By Kathleen Walker
Jan 30, 2006
Access to French's Dome is not free and unregulated. The trailhead is a Northwest Forest Pass (NWFP)site. Users may purchase a $5 daily pass or a $30 annual pass. 80% of the Northwest Forest Pass revenues go directly back to the ground - maintaining trails and sites like this. NWFP funds were used in 2005 on French's Dome to get engineered drawings and a contract package developed to construct climbing platforms. These climbing platforms will replace the eroded hillsides and user created stop gap measures that are currently on site. The total cost of this project (scheduled to start in Spring of 2006)is over $50,000 so please support the NWFP program as it paid for this work. Your fees will also pay for a porta-potty at the site to reduce the white flowers and worse in the woods around the crag. Volunteers that work on trails on the Mt. Hood Forest receive annual Northwest Forest Passes as recognition awards for 2 days of work. See Forest website for more info. Frenches Dome can be busy when local mountain snow-board and ski camp groups are using it on summer afternoons.
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 10, 2007
French's just had a ton of work done on the retaining walls and trails. They've really been beefed up, and the whole effort looks awesome. Thanks to anyone out there who put in some hard hours out there!
Aug 19, 2013
The guide book shows 23 routes and I believe a few more have gone in since it was published.