Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Hillbilly Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.6 dihedral T,TR 
Balls on a Kite T,TR 
Barnyard TR 
Bio-Degradable T,TR 
Booze Pigs S,TR 
Cascadia T 
Curse of the Drill S 
Drink to Puke T,TR 
End of the Innocence S 
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 
Generation Gap S 
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 
High School Romancer TR 
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 
Manic Depression S 
No Time to Linger  TR 
Organic Matter TR 
Pagan Rituals S,TR 
Penitent Crack T,TR 
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 
PWB Arete S 
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 
Sex Weed T 
Strong Faith T,TR 
Strongman's Cooldown  T,TR 
Sunset Ascent S 
Swiss Cheese S,TR 
Turkish Revenge S,TR 
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 
Zig-zag crack T,TR 
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 
Unsorted Routes:

End of the Innocence 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: This has been a historic top-rope route. First sport lead, Ron Long
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,746
Submitted By: Ron L Long on Jun 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
End of the Innocence to the right Curse of the Dr...


This is the first route you will come across after passing the south end of the bluff.

Gain the first bolt after 15 ft of easy climbing. A longer draw on the first bolt will hang better. Climb the increasingly steepening face (slab-near vertical) right of the bolts using horizontal seams and face holds. The route finishes with an interesting lie-back/undercling move to gain ledges right of the anchors.


five bolts

Photos of End of the Innocence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself on End of the Innocence.  Belayed by Ron L ...
Myself on End of the Innocence. Belayed by Ron L ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy at the chains on End of Innocence.
Andy at the chains on End of Innocence.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick on one of his first leads. Great route for a ...
Nick on one of his first leads. Great route for a ...

Comments on End of the Innocence Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Given the well-protected and engaging climbing it offers, this route is destined to become very popular.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

An instant classic now that it's been caressed by the drill...
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 29, 2007

Sweet route and the last layback/undercling move is awesome.
By James23
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2007

"End" and "Curse" were both fun climbs, and the first time leader with me didn't think they were overbolted. Believe it or not, I had a great time just climbing instead of angrily calculating the # of bolts per ft...Thanks...
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb. The layback at the end is fun to pull. This area is just beautiful.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Had a winter adventure on the way up to do Wisconsin's High Point. Stopped here and did this climb. The crag was a little dirty, as to be expected from nobody climbing on it in a while, but none the less, was a good 1st climb of the day. Sandstone is so cold even when the sun bakes on it.
By Tyler Lawton
Nov 13, 2011

Nice fun start route. Took a group of kids down there this summer on a summer climbing and they all enjoyed it.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Going a bit right of the actual line, you can lead this sucker with gear. Definitely only something somebody would do if you've climbed at the Hollow quite a bit, but it's still a good lead.
By Jack C.
From: back of my truck, Utah current
Oct 15, 2015

^+1 Josh. Definitely more interesting on gear.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!