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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 2,017 total, 15/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Turkish Revenge is the bolted line just left of Zig-zag Crack. According to first ascentionist Dave Groth it is 5.13a if one avoids the crack, and climbs the wall straight on, but if one uses the crack the route becomes 5.12b.

Protection

Quickdraws - No chains or top anchors

Photos

Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
I would like to see these retro bolted. As of right now with the run outs, sketchy bolts and no top anchors, these routes are way to intimidating for me. Aug 19, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
I asked dave about this route. He said back in the day when he put this up the ethic was different, least amount of bolts possible. I think safety was not so big an issue back then. He said retro bolting these routes would not be a bad idea.... to make them a safe fun lead. However with all the buzz about bolts at this place it kinda feels like a bad idea... thoughts anyone? Aug 18, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I think this route may be missing a bolt near the top. Aug 13, 2007
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  5.13a
Wow, the upper half of this route has a lot of moves. I felt the crux is at the top right after the last roof. Anyone know if this has seen many leads? Bolts are quite sparse...pretty bad ass lead if one were to do so. This was my first time on the routes left of Zigzag, seems like they dont see much action for their quality. Cool routes on good stone. Jul 22, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This is basically a slab route compared to the modern sport climbing paradigm. It reminded me a bit of the hard climbing at Smith--technical, weight on your feet moves with small holds, relatively sparsely bolted. Definitely hard. Jun 25, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
This route is very hard. A great send by Dave. Have your game face on for this one. Mar 23, 2007