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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 2,288 total, 17/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

All I really remember about this route is that it was relatively moderate and across the canyon from most of the climbing

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

Jack C.
Calgary, AB
  5.9
Jack C.   Calgary, AB
  5.9
If you've got the smallest ballnutz they very effectively protect the bottom up into the really obvious and bomber cam placement. So if you've got those it really doesn't deserve the PG-13. Not to say I wanted to fall but, then again, we never do. Jul 13, 2015
Rich T
5.9
Rich T  
5.9
I think the folks that rated this 5.8 are delirious. Granted I attempted an on-sight lead and found the lower 15 ft difficult to protect. However, I think on TR it would still feel like 5.9. I only add this comment for the 5.8 leader to be cautious and prepared. I can't wait to get back on it. Sep 2, 2013
Stephen H
Central WI
Stephen H   Central WI
FYI: June 12th 2012 my friends and I put up new webbing on the pine tree above Pine Tree Crack. The webbing is tan (khaki) and we put up two chunks and put back on the screw grate. Please check it and replace it as needed. May 20, 2012
waxisgood
Milwaukee, WI
5.9-
waxisgood   Milwaukee, WI
5.9-
the lower part starting on the right takes a really good #5 brass offset then a perfect purple after that to get you through the spicy junk. very fun lead and very well protected if you figure it out. Jul 3, 2011
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
  5.9 PG13
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
  5.9 PG13
This Route can also be done on a top rope if one climbs PWB Arete and solo past the anchors to the top (5.3) then going right once reaching the top block of PWB. Makes for a fun setup if you have a group with some less experienced climbers. Great route! I also agree on the PG13 rating I was able to get a 00 Metolius TCU in the lower part of the crack I never fell on it but it looked and felt bomer once I set it. Apr 19, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.9 PG13
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.9 PG13
I started working on the right face, and it takes a #6 black diamond nut really well....for the first 6 falls. I haven't finished the route yet, but it definitely deserves a PG-13 rating if you start the climb on the right face. Shallow nut placement popped on me, and I hit the ground. Really fun starting sequence figured out though. Sep 26, 2010
Langlois
NYC
 
Langlois   NYC
 
Thats where I've always started the route as well (right side) Sep 16, 2010
Tradiban
  5.9 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.9 PG13
I started on the right face. It had chalk on it while the left side did not. Sep 16, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I believe you are supposed to start on the left in the crack. Where did you start Rhoads? Sep 16, 2010
Tradiban
  5.9 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.9 PG13
Almost as good as Zig Zag. I led it with a micro nut on a screamer to protect the lower half, hence the PG-13 rating. I think starting on the left side of the arete with the crack system might give up better pro and an easier start. Sep 14, 2010
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
 
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
 
Remo,

Thanks I couldn't remember what we reffered to it as... May 2, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9
Locals in the area call this route "Pine Tree Crack". May 2, 2007