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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Jay Knower, June 2007
Page Views: 2,826 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 21, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Generation Gap climbs the blunt arete just left of Swiss Cheese. The route offers a very powerful, bouldery start to progressively easier climbing. Stick clip the first bolt.

Begin "The Gap" by matching the patina edge/feature on the wall above the drop-off. Shorter climbers may have to stack some stones to reach this hold (stacking too many stones might negate the crux, however). Do a pull-up to place a foot on the wall and make powerful moves up to the second bolt. After a couple of pesky hard moves near the third bolt, romp up the less-steep arete to the top. Top out on the ledge and traverse a few feet right to the chains on Swiss Cheese.

Protection

Five bolts. Stick clipping the first bolt is mandatory.
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.12a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.12a
Without cheater stones this is a solid V5+ pull into mid-5.10 climbing, followed by a V3 move to a 5.9ish top. 5.12a at a minimum. Sep 27, 2015
ferrells  
 
Oooh, controversy! Good route, although it could use a spring cleaning. 12a if you grab the patina at full extension. Indeed, skipping that would undermine the difficulty considerably. Apr 1, 2012
Solid 12a, 2-3 move (depending on sequence) boulder problem equals grabbing the crimps and pulling. Sep 15, 2010
I hate when the crux is the first moves. It feels like I'm the fat kid who is forced to start the race in the back of the pack.
I think I would have had a better day if I had just stacked up a few stones and sent a 11b instead of trying to caress my ego with a 5.12. To each his own. Aug 12, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.12a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.12a
Alright, so cheaters stones or not, my buddy still hiked this thing. But he's done it a few times. I got on it and I couldn't stick the first move. I kept sliding out of the pocket above. But I did pull the rest of the climb. Fun climb too. Lots of cool features. Like small pockets in the face above the first move. Sweet. May 26, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I'd say this feels mid 5.11 if you take away the bottom pull-up. Still a fun route, but not 5.12.

If everyone wants the stones up, that's fine with me. I'll just change the grade. No biggie. May 15, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.12a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.12a
The stones were back yesterday. So I knocked them back down. They even had some glue on them to try to keep them together. What a joke. I keep having my buddies tell me how easy a 12 this is. Except they all used the cheater stones, which allow you to put one foot up before you leave the ground, changing the crux completely. You are supposed to hang off the start holds and bring yourself off the ground, not step on the stones to bring yourself off the ground. There are a handful of people that think they got this route done, but they need to go back and do it the right way. May 15, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I was at the Hillbilly this summer and I saw that there was a three foot stack of cheater stones at the base of this route. I am not a purist or anything (ask anyone), but by stacking stones up to start the route, the crux becomes very different. I always thought that the crux was pulling up off the patina edge and getting both feet on the wall. With the stones, the pull-up isn't needed. I don't care if you use cheater stones, but please be aware that the given grade refers to a stone-less ascent. Aug 29, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.12a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.12a
waxisgood,

Just because you figured out the crux move and you are comfortable pulling it, doesn't mean you have to downgrade the climb. That could be said for any climb you figure out. Once you have a feeling for it, there are no struggles. May 19, 2008
waxisgood
Milwaukee, WI
5.11c/d
waxisgood   Milwaukee, WI
5.11c/d
I really like this route but I feel it does not live up to its 5.12 rating when comparing it to pagan rituals and other climbs at the hollow. Once you have a feeling for the first move there are really no struggles. Oct 9, 2007
Dobbe  
If you stick clip the second bolt on the route you won't get clipped by the roof. Fun route, I just keep seeing people get banged up when they miss the first move. Sep 10, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Thanks guys. Congrats, Jason, on the quick 2nd ascent. Jun 25, 2007
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Jay- I was looking at this line last summer. Had I been around long enough... Nice to see some new stuff going in. JJ Jun 22, 2007