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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,337 total · 29/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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Swiss Cheese was the first bolted line one encountered upon entering the canyon proper (before all of the new bolting). Generally speaking there is a pile of cheater stones at the bottom of the route to assist in the direct variation. The stones are there to overcome the overhang, and avoid tumbling into the hollow/cave below. These cheater stones may be considered a sage tactic by some, and in my humble opinion are more sketchy than pulling the move outright. The actual route starts in the corner (getting up the corner and over to the first bolt is the crux) to the right and traverses into the route. The route proper is slightly off angle and follows a line of great patina holds, that seem to define the phrase "great patina holds" - up the beautiful sandstone wall. This is a great route, especially for someone learning to lead.


4 Bolts to a pair of chains - a stick clip might be useful for the first bolt.


James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
As fun as I remembered. The top anchors looked a little rusty and sketchy, but they held all 200 lbs. of me. Get on this thing. Nov 18, 2006
Appleton, WI
Leveille   Appleton, WI
Did my first sport lead on this and it was pretty amazing. Great patina holds and the moves just feel real good. Jun 29, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I'd consider stick clipping the first bolt. The crux is basically going to the first, after which it's pretty cruiser edge climbing to the top. The huge pile of cheater stones used to help in getting to the first. The stones are gone, but it seems like the route was bolted for the "cheater start." So, stick clip it. Aug 13, 2007
Great route! The direct start looked pretty hard so we opted for the right hand start.

The chains looked pretty good today. There could be a need for replacement in a few years or so. Aug 12, 2009
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
this route is awesome, and easy to change climb to climb. a stick clip is mandatory, with a wicked fall being, well, wicked. there are many subtle differences if you climb slightly right or slightly left of the obvious line up the bolts, but they all are about 5.8 to 5.9 climbs. fun stuff. Apr 30, 2010
Stevens Point, WI
Doorbluff   Stevens Point, WI
The "new" first bolt is a spinner right now. It could probably afford to be tightened, but I am not sure what the recommended torque is on that bolt. Sep 14, 2016
Eman Li
Eman Li  
This route is definitely not an easy one to start off, and I would rate the starting to be at least a 5.10+ as it was very challenging to clip on the first bolt (if the route starts off from the right side of the crack). We attempted clipping on to the second bolt, but the holds were too sharp not decent holds, making it almost impossible to move on with the route. We did not enjoy this route despite all the raving comments, and would not recommend this for beginners. Nov 26, 2016

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