Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: John Knoernschild 8/30/2008
Page Views: 2,281 total · 18/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Penitent offers fun climbing. For the first half of the climb it's easy moving. When you reach the main crack about 20 ft from the top, that's where it gets a bit harder. The crack offers good finger and hand jams.

Location

To the left of "Curse of the Drill". Start by moving up a slabby 10ft section. Then get into the bottom face/small crack. The small broken up crack has some nice finger jams. Move up to large ledge and continue up face using horizontal cracks and small feet. From here move into the main crack to top.

Protection

standard rack. medium tri-cams

Photos

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7
This climb was completely covered in moss and lichen. You couldn't see parts of the crack at the top from the ground. I spent about 2 hours scrubbing it clean. Then I sent it on sight.

It was a really fun climb. Offered good pro and fun moving. Aug 30, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7
Thx James. I saw this route as a good opportunity to add another moderate climb to the Hollow. There aren't enough moderates in the area and I want more people to come here and climb so the routes stay cleaner. Sep 5, 2008
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I lead this last fall and really enjoyed it. Especially the upper section. Way to go John. Fun to plug gear on this and it is all good and closely spaced... May 5, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7
Thx Burt. Glad to see others enjoying the route. Oct 22, 2009
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
I led the right variation of this today, 5.9 and "R". Best to be top roped I think but fun moves. Sep 14, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7
Nice nick. I looked at that variation when I cleaned this. It looked very unprotected. Sep 15, 2010
Zach Parsons
Tacoma, WA
Zach Parsons   Tacoma, WA
I semi-accidentally ended up on the 5.9 variation, managed to get some semi-marginal gear in. That top out is... stressful. Sep 8, 2014
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.7
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.7
Got back on this last weekend for the first time since my FA. Surprised it's still clean as a whistle. And the climbing was even better than I remembered. Love this climb! The upper crack section is quite good. Sep 18, 2014
Doorbluff
Stevens Point, WI
 
Doorbluff   Stevens Point, WI
 
Led this yesterday. Really fun and still clean. Thinking about and finding the gear on this one was a blast, and different then other cracks I have climbed. Good stemming moves towards the top.

Gear summary: .75 Green BD low, then a blue BD nut, tricam (lots of horizontal options), yellow DMM offset, #2 BD Cam for the crack at the top, then anchor building in the top of the vertical crack, or walk back and use natural pro (large trees 15 ft. back). May 10, 2017