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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: John Knoernschild 8/30/2008
Page Views: 2,152 total, 19/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Penitent offers fun climbing. For the first half of the climb it's easy moving. When you reach the main crack about 20 ft from the top, that's where it gets a bit harder. The crack offers good finger and hand jams.

Location

To the left of "Curse of the Drill". Start by moving up a slabby 10ft section. Then get into the bottom face/small crack. The small broken up crack has some nice finger jams. Move up to large ledge and continue up face using horizontal cracks and small feet. From here move into the main crack to top.

Protection

standard rack. medium tri-cams
Doorbluff
Stevens Point, WI
 
Doorbluff   Stevens Point, WI
 
Led this yesterday. Really fun and still clean. Thinking about and finding the gear on this one was a blast, and different then other cracks I have climbed. Good stemming moves towards the top.

Gear summary: .75 Green BD low, then a blue BD nut, tricam (lots of horizontal options), yellow DMM offset, #2 BD Cam for the crack at the top, then anchor building in the top of the vertical crack, or walk back and use natural pro (large trees 15 ft. back). May 10, 2017
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Got back on this last weekend for the first time since my FA. Surprised it's still clean as a whistle. And the climbing was even better than I remembered. Love this climb! The upper crack section is quite good. Sep 18, 2014
Zach Parsons
Tacoma, WA
Zach Parsons   Tacoma, WA
I semi-accidentally ended up on the 5.9 variation, managed to get some semi-marginal gear in. That top out is... stressful. Sep 8, 2014
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Nice nick. I looked at that variation when I cleaned this. It looked very unprotected. Sep 15, 2010
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
I led the right variation of this today, 5.9 and "R". Best to be top roped I think but fun moves. Sep 14, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Thx Burt. Glad to see others enjoying the route. Oct 22, 2009
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I lead this last fall and really enjoyed it. Especially the upper section. Way to go John. Fun to plug gear on this and it is all good and closely spaced... May 5, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Thx James. I saw this route as a good opportunity to add another moderate climb to the Hollow. There aren't enough moderates in the area and I want more people to come here and climb so the routes stay cleaner. Sep 5, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
This climb was completely covered in moss and lichen. You couldn't see parts of the crack at the top from the ground. I spent about 2 hours scrubbing it clean. Then I sent it on sight.

It was a really fun climb. Offered good pro and fun moving. Aug 30, 2008