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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Stephen Hittner
Page Views: 378 total, 9/month
Shared By: Stephen H on Jun 28, 2014
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A short strong climb located on the South side of an independent block. The climb feels similar to the Pine Tree Crack. It has a strong bouldery start, probably the crux, going up the crack and getting a little easier on the top.

Josh Olson and I originally projected this climb in summer 2011. I'm hoping more people get a chance to try this climb out and let us know what you think?

Location

This climb is an independent block between
High School Romancer and the Hollow. It's on the path towards the hollow and right in front of Two Hands of Prayer.
This specific climb goes up the crack on the South side of the block.

Protection

I used 1 large nut, two small cams in the middle section, and another large nut near the top. The gear is not really straightforward and there is some suspect rock on the climb. I gave the climb an overly cautious PG-13 rating (its probably more PG) since it took us awhile to find confident gear on this pumpy climb. That being said, the climb is short with mostly a low crux so I felt confident on it.

You can easily set up a top rope by hiking up the back side of this block and slinging the two boulders on top or using some cracks etc.

Photos

Jack C.
Calgary, AB
 
Jack C.   Calgary, AB
 
I onsight free-soloed this a few years ago. More realistically it was a highball without crashpads cause it's so short. It's like 5.6 or something otherwise I wouldn't have soloed it. Oct 15, 2015
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
This "route" is good for how short it is. The gear is alright, but it is definitely tricky to find, and somewhat hard to place. Pad might help, if you are so inclined.
Good movement. Too bad the Hollow is so short. Oct 8, 2014