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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: Historic?
Page Views: 732 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josh Olson on May 6, 2011
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Dirty, dirty, dirty. The line follows the crack system about 5 feet left of "The Curse of the Drill." The crack terminates near the anchors of "Curse," as well. The crux was high off the ground, probably around 10 feet from the top with a lieback. Either that or just figuring out the gear. Definitely kept me on my toes. Did I mention it was dirty?

Location

Crack system between "Penitent Crack" and "The Curse of the Drill." There is a pine tree around 30 or so feet up growing out of the crack. Rap off the anchors for "Curse" or top out and walk back around.

Protection

Smaller gear, nothing bigger than a number 4 Metolius TCU, I was glad I brought my hexes, and I dropped in a stopper or two also. There is a pretty decent size runout low to the ground, and a lot of the gear was finicky, to say the least.

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Matthew Clausen  
  5.7
Not nearly as dirty these days, and protects well enough. The crack is on a flake system, so I wouldn't want to take a major whipper and risk breaking the rock. First piece is high, but it's a 5.3 scramble to reach it. Convenient finish on the anchors for Curse of the Drill next to it. Aug 18, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Hey Josh, there are a few other lines out there. I'm not sure about their quality though. I would urge against you adding those to the database until you climb on them, however. It's best to gain solid information about the routes before you add them. That way, MP can be a truly accurate resource for rock climbs. May 9, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
 
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
 
Sounds good Jay. Also, I'm curious about a lot of lines that aren't in this database. Did you or do you know of anybody that did a lot of gear leading in the hollow? I've found around five other lines, and I'd like to figure out the history of the area a little better. May 8, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I think this route has been climbed before, but I've never heard of a name for it. Repentance Crack sounds good. We briefly thought of bolting it, but as you found out, it has just enough gear placements to barely justify a gear lead. None of us climbed it. We just rappelled it to check it out. May 8, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
 
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
 
Me and Caleb Cerling led this route for our first time last summer. I would love to know if anyone else has lead this. Also, I like dirty little head games, so I love this route. May 7, 2011