Type: Sport, TR, 55 ft
FA: contrived, no FA
Page Views: 320 total · 2/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on May 18, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb to the left of the bolts on "End of the Innocence", right between "End" and "Curse". Avoid all holds on "Curse of the Drill". Move straight up on crimpy holds and small feet. Climb straight through overhang and work your way back into the finish of "End of the Innocence" finishing with the same layback/undercling to top it off.

Location

Between "End of the Innocence" and "Curse of the Drill"

Protection

5 bolts, 2 top bolts (anchors)
(same bolts as "End")

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

end of innocence, curse of the drill, and all in between
end of innocence, curse of the drill, and all i…
 0
The red horizontal line indicates a ledge that is "off"
The red horizontal line indicates a ledge that…
 0

8 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
What bolts do you clip? Is it hard to reach right (or left?) to clip? May 18, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8+
I used the bolts to the right on "End" and it was easy to clip. May 18, 2008
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Isn't this type of "squeezing in" reserved for toprope routes at the Lake? To climb a "route" between two already closely spaced lines, such that you could clip the bolts on either of the other routes seems a bit like pushing it to me, but whatever, you had fun right? I guess next time I'm there I'll have to give it a go... May 19, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8+
It really wasn't a squeeze James. You can't reach the bolts on "Curse", only 2 of them are near you during the route. It is simply a direct route of "End". It stays very close to the bolts on "End". I didn't have to try to stay away from "Curse", but for those tempted to take the easy way, I put the "x" marks in the photo to keep you on track. And yes, it was alot of fun. May 19, 2008
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
John,

I was there when "The End" and "Curse" were being put in, we climbed your variation on Toprope and we decided it was best to keep the routes more spaced out. As it is the "The End" and "Curse" are relatively close. I don't want to get into a big flame-fest with you about this so I sent you a PM.

Cheers,
James May 19, 2008
Erik Olson
Erik Olson  
Not to add to the fire but this is pretty much the same route just a little left. I usually climb this route and always considered it the "End" and at the same time I see people mix it up between this "route" and the "End" often, especially when it is their first time on the "End". Seems like this maybe this should be listed as a variation of the "End" on it's page and not listed as a completely separate route.

2 cents Jul 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8+
Erik,

The fire was put out long ago. And I did list it as a variation of end instead of a direct route. But it clearly is a completely different beginning. "End" is climbed to the right of the bolts. The variation is climbed to the left of the bolts. I dont see how you think it is the same climb. The end is the same, therefore making it a variation. Jul 9, 2008
Tradiban
Tradiban  
Highly contrived? "End..." with bad beta? A "squeeze job"? Yes this is all of those things but in the end you will get a little extra mileage by adding this into your day.

Although, I think variations ought to be posted under what they are variations of to reduce clutter on MP. But, this was posted long ago and you probably already know what I think ;)

Climb on! Aug 12, 2009