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Routes in Hillbilly Routes

5.6 dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balls on a Kite T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barnyard TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bio-Degradable T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Booze Pigs S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cascadia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Curse of the Drill S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drink to Puke T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
End of the Innocence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Generation Gap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High School Romancer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Manic Depression S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Time to Linger TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Organic Matter TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PWB Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pagan Rituals S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Penitent Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sex Weed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strong Faith T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Strongman's Cooldown T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Ascent S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swiss Cheese S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turkish Revenge S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig-zag crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Paul Leverich, TR solo
Page Views: 3,608 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs up the well-defined arete on the opposite side of the canyon from Swiss Cheese. If you look closely, you will find the scatched-in initials "PWB" near the first bolt. You will also see a shallow hole from what looks to have been a long-ago aborted bolting attempt.

Anyway, climb up to the first bolt. A .75-1" cam might offer some protection getting to the bolt, but really the climbing isn't that bad. Then climb delicate, slabby, rock past four bolts to the tree. Top out on the ledge and clip the anchors.

PWB offers very cool, thought-provoking climbing up a beautiful feature on perfect rock. If it was longer it would certainly warrant more stars.

Protection

Four bolts. Optional cam.
I toprope soloed this summer of 1994 or 1995 no bolts at that time. I must have spent two hours cleaning off all the moss. Mar 16, 2014
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.8+
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.8+
Fantastic route, probably climbed it a couple dozen times now. Great bolting, great climbing.
If you do climb this, please set up an anchor, DO NOT toprope through the rap rings. I've had to ask two groups now in the last two months to set up an anchor. So, make sure to check for wear on the rings before you hop down. Jun 3, 2011
Daniel Max Christiansen
Green Bay, WI
 
Daniel Max Christiansen   Green Bay, WI
 
Just lead this on my first trip here. Nice climb...classic, aesthetic moves using the arete and the bolts are placed at excellent rests. The crux move was easily pulled by my reach, but remained a 5.9 move for my 5'4'' climbing partner. Jun 7, 2010
Midwest mountaineer
Stevens Point, WI
Midwest mountaineer   Stevens Point, WI
A lot of fun! I like that there seems to be very little as you look at it, and then when you start climbing you realize that there is very little, but it is all solid. Climb this if you're in the area, a quick route that makes you feel good at the end. Jul 6, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9
Finally got on it. Great climb! Even Angie said "Too bad it doesn't go for another 50ft." Aug 31, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9
Awesome Jay! I can't wait to get on it. Jul 11, 2008
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
Thanks for all the work at the hollow Jay! All the new routes are awesome. As a side note, did you hear about the Vertical Stronghold "reunion" that is going to be held at wheelers the weekend of aug 2,3, and 4 or so? Jul 11, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Today I added top anchors to this route. It extends the climbing. Rather than reaching for the slings on the tree (slings are now gone) you top out on the ledge and clip the anchors. I also added a bolt at the top of the arete to protect the top-out moves.

Pay attention to the big boulder out right as you top out. I'm not sure if it is loose, but I wouldn't want to find out. Jul 10, 2008
Erik Olson
  5.8+
Erik Olson  
  5.8+
Fun route on lead. Good bolt placement. The route on the right side of this wall we use to call "Barn Yard". The lower sections of Barnyard are climbable on TR, but on the top you would have to climb through the top of the yellow birch that has fallen over. Aug 5, 2007
Erik Olson
  5.8+
Erik Olson  
  5.8+
This is a great route, I climbed it quite a few years ago with dlanglois on top rope (along with another route on that face that was pretty fun and just as dirty at the time). I am excited to give it a go on lead. Have to check it out the weekend after next. Jul 17, 2007
Leveille
Appleton, WI
 
Leveille   Appleton, WI
 
This is a sweet route with nice bolt placement. I did my third lead on this and it was awesome. Nice work bolting all the new stuff Jay. Jun 29, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9-
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9-
Pete,

The bolts went up just last week, so you probably didn't see it the last time you were there (unless it's been since last week), but it's right across the hollow from Swiss Cheese... Jun 27, 2007
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
 
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
 
Where exactly is this route? Jun 27, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9-
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9-
Agreed Jay, a true classic, if it was only longer. Solid 5.8 climbing up to a tenuous 5.9 move, that would feel like 5.10 if it wasn't so efficiently bolted. Jun 25, 2007