Manic Depression
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Jay Knower, Peter Dodge-June 2007 First TR: Erik Olson 2004 |
Page Views: | 3,167 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Jay Knower on Jul 1, 2007 |
Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE |
Description
Locate the wall to the right of the classic Swiss Cheese. Manic Depression climbs up past four bolts on the left side of the wall. The route is steeper than it looks from the ground, and it's a bit less tweaky than other routes in the area.
Stick clip the first bolt. Start with difficult, thin balancy moves to gain a stance on the right below the second bolt. Then move slightly left, past a cool sequence up to the third bolt. Continue straight up to the top past another bolt en route to the anchors.
The left crack/weakness is definitely off, though when climbing the bolt line, these holds don't seem that tempting.
Stick clip the first bolt. Start with difficult, thin balancy moves to gain a stance on the right below the second bolt. Then move slightly left, past a cool sequence up to the third bolt. Continue straight up to the top past another bolt en route to the anchors.
The left crack/weakness is definitely off, though when climbing the bolt line, these holds don't seem that tempting.
Campton, NH
Madison, WI
Sauk County, WI
I borrowed your photo of Manic Depression, and overlayed a line showing where Trundle Pete goes. I had always assumed your TR line was to the right of this, going up through the overhangs, etc.
Trundle Pete makes a quick dash up for the pocket, on somewhat thin climbing. Next it traverses the bulge heading left on relatively easy climbing (although exceedingly height dependent) and then heads up into the scoop at the top, finally finshing with a dynamic move from the upper patina to the horizontal.
Cheers,
James Jul 18, 2007
Campton, NH
I thought 11b seemed accurate for Trundle, but maybe it's a bit harder. The best way to figure this out is to have a bunch of people do the route and get a consensus going. To me, though, it seemed similar to ABM and Black Rib at DL.
Jul 18, 2007
Campton, NH
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Milwaukee, WI
Madison, WI
Apr 15, 2009
Wisconsin
My house