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Cerberus Gendarme

Routes Sorted
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Cave Route 
Cherry Crack 
Cynthia's Hand Job 
Dire Wolf 
Electrica 
Fails of Power 
Fat Hedral, The 
Flip of a Coin 
Intruder 
Mean High Tide 
No Holds Barred 
Scarlet Begonias 
Squeeze Play 
Tales of Flails 
Touchstone Wall 

Cerberus Gendarme 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 2, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Cerberus Gendarme showing access trail and Touchst...
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Description 

The Cerberus Gendarme formation is on the east side of Zion Canyon - no need to cross the river!

The main attraction is the 8-pitch Touchstone Wall (IV 5.9 C2), a relatively short, but slightly harder wall in comparison to Moonlight Buttress. The route is a good choice for a first big wall venture, as the route goes straight up and retreat, if necessary, is straightforward (as opposed to Spaceshot past pitch 4).


Getting There 

Take the shuttle to the Big Bend stop (as for Prodigal Sun, Moonlight Buttress). The Cerberus Gendarme lies directly across the river from Moonlight Buttress. From the shuttle stop, backtrack the road for a couple hundred yards to the climbers' access trail. Look for the posted trail markers and please use them as to prevent unnecessary erosion! Approach time: 5 minutes.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cerberus Gendarme:
Cave Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Touchstone Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a C2     Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 820'   
Squeeze Play   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tales of Flails   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
Cynthia's Hand Job   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Flip of a Coin   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Cherry Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
The Fat Hedral   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Scarlet Begonias   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mean High Tide   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Fails of Power   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 80'   
Intruder   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Electrica   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
Dire Wolf   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Cerberus Gendarme

Featured Route For Cerberus Gendarme
Joy on Squeeze Play

Squeeze Play 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a  UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme
This is the prominent crack to the right of Cave Route. It starts in a small-hands splitter and moves up through two broken cracks to great arete climbing. Folks most often protect in the small crack and climb the arete.You could also choose to weasel around in the offwidth crack, but that makes for some difficulty reaching the chain anchors at the top of the pitch.Super fun route. Some great strength and technique moves with a great view....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Cerberus Gendarme
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Killer view, looking out from the Cerberus Gendarme wall...
Killer view, looking out from the Cerberus Gendarm...
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By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2005

My partner and I climbed a couple of the base routes on Cerberus a few days ago. We felt that they were of very high quality. We climbed Cherry Crack to the first anchor and Fails of Power to it's first anchor. Both routes were great and the other lines in this area look awesome too. If you have a little extra time in the park I would highly suggest getting on some of these lines.

By seamstress
Jun 9, 2009

There is an access trail that is only 50 paces, not several hundred yards from the shuttle stop. The access sign is not visible from the road, but a short way in. The use trail splits there. Go left for Cave Route and No Holds Barred. Further down the road (a few hundred yards), there is an access sign at the road. There is a maze of use trails there and much erosion. For these routes, it is probably better to use the first trail and go right at the split.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Jan 9, 2012

can anyone comment on sun at this time( mid-winter) ? when does it come and go? trying to plan a trip for next week and wondering...


thanks!


jon