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Cerberus Gendarme

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cave Route T 
Cherry Crack T 
Cynthia's Hand Job T 
Dire Wolf T 
Electrica T,S 
Fails of Power T 
Fat Hedral, The T 
Flip of a Coin T 
Intruder T 
Mean High Tide T 
No Holds Barred T 
Scarlet Begonias T 
Squeeze Play T 
Tales of Flails T 
Touchstone Wall T 

Cerberus Gendarme Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.27435, -112.94437 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,189
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 2, 2002
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Killer view, looking out from the Cerberus Gendarm...

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


The Cerberus Gendarme formation is on the east side of Zion Canyon - no need to cross the river!

The main attraction is the 8-pitch Touchstone Wall (IV 5.9 C2), a relatively short, but slightly harder wall in comparison to Moonlight Buttress. The route is a good choice for a first big wall venture, as the route goes straight up and retreat, if necessary, is straightforward (as opposed to Spaceshot past pitch 4).

Getting There 

Take the shuttle to the Big Bend stop (as for Prodigal Sun, Moonlight Buttress). The Cerberus Gendarme lies directly across the river from Moonlight Buttress. From the shuttle stop, backtrack the road for a couple hundred yards to the climbers' access trail. Look for the posted trail markers and please use them as to prevent unnecessary erosion! Approach time: 5 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cerberus Gendarme:
Cave Route   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Touchstone Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2     Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 820'   
Squeeze Play   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tales of Flails   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Cynthia's Hand Job   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Cherry Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
The Fat Hedral   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Scarlet Begonias   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mean High Tide   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Fails of Power   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 80'   
Intruder   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Electrica   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
Dire Wolf   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cerberus Gendarme

Featured Route For Cerberus Gendarme
Rock Climbing Photo: Scarlet Begonias.

Scarlet Begonias 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme
This is the fairly short flake right of Fails of Power. It climbs through a pod and into a handcrack for 30 feet; this section goes up a right facing dihedral. From there, you'll have to undercling right out of the small roof, and then up another 15 feet to the chains. The lower section in the dihedral has some face holds for feet. Take advantage of them....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Cerberus Gendarme Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cerberus Gendarme showing access trail and Touchst...
BETA PHOTO: Cerberus Gendarme showing access trail and Touchst...

Comments on Cerberus Gendarme Add Comment
Show which comments
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2005
My partner and I climbed a couple of the base routes on Cerberus a few days ago. We felt that they were of very high quality. We climbed Cherry Crack to the first anchor and Fails of Power to it's first anchor. Both routes were great and the other lines in this area look awesome too. If you have a little extra time in the park I would highly suggest getting on some of these lines.
By seamstress
Jun 9, 2009
There is an access trail that is only 50 paces, not several hundred yards from the shuttle stop. The access sign is not visible from the road, but a short way in. The use trail splits there. Go left for Cave Route and No Holds Barred. Further down the road (a few hundred yards), there is an access sign at the road. There is a maze of use trails there and much erosion. For these routes, it is probably better to use the first trail and go right at the split.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Jan 9, 2012
can anyone comment on sun at this time( mid-winter) ? when does it come and go? trying to plan a trip for next week and wondering...



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