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Lurking Fear 

5.7 C2

   

FA: Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff, and Jim Pettigrew
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.7 C2 [details]
Length: 19 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade VI
Views: 970 page views

Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 21, 2008


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Pitch 2 (I think) of Lurking Fear.


Description 

Lurking Fear is the easiest aid climb on El Capitan. The aid is straight forward and the free climbing is excellent. The entire free climb checks in at 5.13c (FFA: Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden). Despite the moderate grade of this route, it doesn't see nearly as much traffic as The Nose or The Salathe. There is a fair amount of terrain that can be free climbed at a moderate grade and the aid on terrain harder than that tends to be mostly C1. The vast majority of the route seemed to haul easily. The SuperTopo warns about bad hauling on the upper pitches but we didn't find anything overly difficult or frustrating. There are few, good natural ledges on this route for bivying, besides Thanksgiving Ledge. The top of the route features seemingly endless slabs hence it is also popular to rap the route. This route is a good candidate for wall climbers looking for their first El Cap route. It would be difficult to give pitch-by-pitch beta so consult a topo such as the Yosemite Super Topo book.


Location 

Lurking Fear is on the far left side of El Capitan. Hike to the base of the wall, as you would for the Nose, and then skirt the base of the wall, hiking up the long slope beneath the face. The approach feels long, particularly when carrying a haul bag and comparing it to the Nose. It makes you realize how big El Cap is, as you traverse underneath a lot of rock on your way to Lurking Fear. There is a few hundred feet of 3rd and 4th class ledges to negotiate, shortly before the start of the route. It is probably advisable to haul bags or fix lines on some of these sections. The start of the route is about 100 feet from the corner of the buttress and starts in a left-facing corner.


Protection 

Double set of nuts, including small nuts. Triple set of cams up to red Camalot and double set of cams to old #4.5 Camalot. A selection of basic hooks, cam hooks and rivet hangers. Can also bring few heads in case any are missing.



Add Photo Photos of Lurking Fear
Pitch 7 of Lurking Fear. A fun, airy and exposed pitch.

Pitch 7 of Lurking Fear. A fun, airy and exposed p...

Bivying on top of pitch 9, party pig in tow.

Bivying on top of pitch 9, party pig in tow.

Pitch 12 of Lurking Fear. One of my favorite pitches on the route.

Pitch 12 of Lurking Fear. One of my favorite pitch...

Pitch 18 on Lurking Fear.

Pitch 18 on Lurking Fear.

Ready to hike to Lurking Fear. RJ and I lost the "roshambo" and got to carry everything while the other two got to start climbing.

Ready to hike to Lurking Fear. RJ and I lost the "...

Nothing like chilling on a big wall. Pitch 2 (?) on Lurking Fear.

Nothing like chilling on a big wall. Pitch 2 (?) o...

Pitch 15 on Lurking Fear.

Pitch 15 on Lurking Fear.