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Mr. Midwest
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Horse Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
| Type: | Trad, 1800 ft (545 m), 15 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | FA Bill Russell, Doug McDonald, August 1985 FFA Eric Bissell, Cameron King, May 2016 |
| Page Views: | 5,009 total · 87/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Bissell on Aug 26, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Mr. Midwest Free roughly follows the original aid line with 5 variation pitches. The hardest climbing is in the first 6 pitches, and it is relatively straightforward to rappel from the top of the crux 5th pitch to the ground on a suss mission.
Pitch 1 - Easy runout slab to a hard sequence before moving left to the corner. Thin liebacking to the anchor. 1 bolt belay
Pitch 2 - Incredible lieback and stem corner. 1 bolt belay
Pitch 3 - Steep juggy start to golden face climbing. Wide gear for belay at corner.
Pitch 4 - Wide corner to low easy traverse to West Face belay.
Pitch 5 - Backclean or runner 5.9 to a wide section of corner. #4 at the base of a mega lieback flake. Corner gets thinner and thinner to a punchy section before a bolt from the aid line for an old belay. Rest at the pod, then carry on out the undercling to clip the bolt above the first overlap and pull into the roof. Traverse left back to the belay. Mega pitch!
Pitch 6 - Tricky, balancy, body-position climbing on bullet gold rock. 5.11 slab to exit the seam and easier runout to the anchor.
Pitch 7 - Wander with minimal gear to the corner of El Cap Arms. Awesome ledge!
Pitch 8 - Up the groove, clip the pin and traverse hard right. Join West Face to that belay.
Pitch 9 - Neat steep 5.10 to El Cap’s most incredible crystal.
Pitch 10 - Recharge at the “Crystal of the Eternal Nows” before the scruffy Black Corner. A little wide groveling gets steep and thin with face holds and sporty climbing before the crack gets wide again. Slab up to a piton and gear belay.
Pitch 11 - 5.8 dirty roof
Pitch 12 - Physical 5.10 undercling (hope it’s clean) and face traverse up to the wildly overhanging crack. Dangle, thrutch, or style your way over the lip El Cap’s western face and work left to belay.
Pitch 13 - little 5.9 corner and scramble to Thanksgiving Ledge.
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