Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 2. Southwest Face
Never Never Land
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A3
Avg: 3.3 from 16
votes
Routes in 2. Southwest Face
|
|
Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
|
|
Controlled Burn T A4 |
|
|
Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
|
|
El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
|
|
Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
|
|
Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
|
|
Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
|
|
Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
|
|
Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
|
|
Horse Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
|
|
Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
|
|
Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
|
|
Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
|
|
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
|
|
Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
|
|
Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
|
|
Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
|
|
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
|
|
Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
|
|
Ready to Go T A5+ X |
|
|
Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
|
|
Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
|
|
Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
|
|
Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
|
|
Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
|
|
West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
|
|
West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Aid, 2000 ft (606 m), 20 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Hawkins, Chapman. 1978 |
| Page Views: | 9,242 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | V.X. on Apr 9, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Never Never Land may be the best moderate route on El Cap's West Buttress. Positioned on the on the impressive nose of rock between Lurking Fear and Dihedral Wall, the route has a great view of the huge concave Southwest wall of the Capitan. The climbing is harder than Lurking Fear, better than Lost World, and about the same difficulty as the current state of Zodiac, New Dawn, Shield, etc.
The route starts on Aquarian Wall, a line originally unlocked by Kim Schmitz and Jim Bridwell in 1971. Both had teamed up to complete the Triple Direct together in '69. Aquarian was Bridwell's first independent route on El Cap. They had attempted the line before but bad weather forced a desperate bivy and dangerous retreat. The team linked thin piton cracks with a few bolt ladders up to the right side of Timbuktu Tower. This is the start to Never Never Land.
Timbuktu Tower is where the Never Never Land variant deviates from Aquarian Wall. This huge flat ledge is the only obvious ledge on the West Buttress. Crack a soda, watch the sunset, and bivy on this really nice patio. The next 3 pitches off of this ledge are tricky, expect them to take a little longer. Chapman and Hawkins did some creative hooking and pendulums to access a shallow vertical corner. This corner crack system climbs really fun A2 and lots of A1/C1 placements - usually some big beaks and offset cams get you through anything tricky. Link the 2 pitches up to Long Ledge and the 2 after to the Pinnacle of Hammerdom.
The Pinnacle of Hammerdom has a great anchor for a hanging bivy. From here, a pretty continuous ramp and crack takes climbers to Thanksgiving Ledge. Enjoy your time here, the exposure is great the aspect, perfect. While climbing these cracks you won't believe that you have the whole route and the whole section of wall to yourself.
Hawkins would later collaborate with Kauk, Bard, and Burton on New Jersey Turnpike. Chapman would go on to complete Eagle's Way on El Cap's Southeast Face with Graham and Orey.
First One Day Ascent: McNeely, MacNamara 16:00 (rocknclimb.com)
The route starts on Aquarian Wall, a line originally unlocked by Kim Schmitz and Jim Bridwell in 1971. Both had teamed up to complete the Triple Direct together in '69. Aquarian was Bridwell's first independent route on El Cap. They had attempted the line before but bad weather forced a desperate bivy and dangerous retreat. The team linked thin piton cracks with a few bolt ladders up to the right side of Timbuktu Tower. This is the start to Never Never Land.
Timbuktu Tower is where the Never Never Land variant deviates from Aquarian Wall. This huge flat ledge is the only obvious ledge on the West Buttress. Crack a soda, watch the sunset, and bivy on this really nice patio. The next 3 pitches off of this ledge are tricky, expect them to take a little longer. Chapman and Hawkins did some creative hooking and pendulums to access a shallow vertical corner. This corner crack system climbs really fun A2 and lots of A1/C1 placements - usually some big beaks and offset cams get you through anything tricky. Link the 2 pitches up to Long Ledge and the 2 after to the Pinnacle of Hammerdom.
The Pinnacle of Hammerdom has a great anchor for a hanging bivy. From here, a pretty continuous ramp and crack takes climbers to Thanksgiving Ledge. Enjoy your time here, the exposure is great the aspect, perfect. While climbing these cracks you won't believe that you have the whole route and the whole section of wall to yourself.
Hawkins would later collaborate with Kauk, Bard, and Burton on New Jersey Turnpike. Chapman would go on to complete Eagle's Way on El Cap's Southeast Face with Graham and Orey.
First One Day Ascent: McNeely, MacNamara 16:00 (rocknclimb.com)
Photos
7 Comments