Type: Trad, Aid, 3300 ft (1000 m), 26 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, Glen Denny. 1962.
Page Views: 2,140 total · 176/month
Shared By: Matthew Bernstein on Oct 19, 2020
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This incredibly natural route follows obvious corner systems, most of which are left-facing, up the Southwest face of El Capitan. The first 16 pitches are fun, moderate aid climbing on great rock. The route gets a bit grassy and dirty the last few pitches up to Thanksgiving Ledge. The original 4 pitch finish features some gaping chimneys with a fair amount of loose rock and hollow features. Alternatively, shuttle your bags further west along Thanksgiving ledge and finish on the last two pitches of Lurking Fear. The route has one good ledge between the ground and Thanksgiving ledge at the top of pitch 9. This ledge could fit maybe one person, so bring a portaledge.

Location

This route is on the Southwest face of El Cap. It starts in the obvious left facing corner system on the right end of the Great Slab. Ascend a 4th class, right trending ramp to get to the two bolt anchor, which marks the start of Pitch 1.

Protection

Cams: Doubles from micro cams up to #4 Camalot. Single #5 Camalot. 2 Sets of offset cams. Nuts: one set of offset nuts from micro to a gold and blue DMM (the smaller Blue). 5 Rivet Hangers (more if you don't back clean). Hooks: 2 each talon or bathook, 1 each grappling and cliffhanger. One each regular and wide camhook. 5 Large beaks, 2 medium beaks.

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