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Routes in Southwest Face

Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Freerider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+
Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3
Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+
Salathe Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Type: Trad, Aid, 2900 ft, 33 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 1965
Page Views: 16,498 total · 116/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 27, 2007 with updates from Twinboas
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Muir Wall is an outstanding route that follows a beautiful natural line of crack and corner systems just left of The Nose. Although moderate in grade this route sees relatively little traffic due to it's very sustained and demanding nature, which requires lots of technical aid climbing. This route has been climbed at 5.9 C4 but most parties will probably want to bring some pins and a hammer to keep the grade at A2. For more detailed info and topos look at the "Yosemite Big Wall Supertopo" guide book.

Location

The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to a large left facing dihedral just left of Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.

Protection

Standard Gear: cams in triples from .5" to 3", an extra 0.75" or two, and doubles in Black Diamond 4" to 5" equivalent. Micro cams are very useful on many pitches, bring doubles if you've got em. Bring a solid set of nuts including offsets, as well as one or two sets of micro nuts (incl. offsets). Bring a single medium hook, but you could possibly use a beak instead on the 1-2 hook placements on the route.

Clean Rack: bring two wide cam hooks (narrow may work as well) and as many beaks as you've got (at minimum, bring doubles in all sizes, but ideally several more). Offset cams, ideally doubles in the smaller sizes. Totems (especially black to yellow) were great for the strange shallow scars on the upper pitches. Ballnuts.

Nailing Rack: bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and 1-2 beaks in sizes small, medium, and large.
426
  5.10 C4-
426  
  5.10 C4-
We did this route clean several years ago and I highly rec an arsennal of small aliens, both offset and normal. The crux is a little bit rotten.

Overall a super classic route. One of the best bivies on the Cap is to the left about 80' of the start of the huge dihedral near the top. Some funkiness to get there (easy 5th traverse) but oh so classic.... Mar 6, 2007
FCA: Steve Grossman, 1990 Jan 21, 2012
Tate Shepherd
Bend, OR
Tate Shepherd   Bend, OR
I solo'd this route from mammoth terrace this spring, (I had climbed freeblast with a friend who helped me haul to mammoth terrace, the rest was done solo). It went well, and I highly recommend it as a solo. The aid is very moderate, and the only difficult part to do alone is the traverse into the Muir wall dihedral system from below the Shield headwall, and the final traversing pitch near the top out. If your interested in a full write up with videos and pictures, check it out on my blog here tateshepherd.com/blog/ Jul 24, 2017

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