Type: Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 33 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 1965
Page Views: 23,776 total · 144/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 27, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Muir Wall is an outstanding route that follows a beautiful natural line of crack and corner systems just left of The Nose. Although moderate in grade this route sees relatively little traffic due to it's very sustained and demanding nature, which requires lots of technical aid climbing. This route has been climbed at 5.9 C4 but most parties will probably want to bring some pins and a hammer to keep the grade at A2. For more detailed info and topos look at the "Yosemite Big Wall Supertopo" guide book.

Location

The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to a large left facing dihedral just left of Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.

Protection

Standard Gear: cams in triples from .5" to 3", an extra 0.75" or two, and doubles in Black Diamond 4" to 5" equivalent. Micro cams are very useful on many pitches, bring doubles if you've got em. Bring a solid set of nuts including offsets, as well as one or two sets of micro nuts (incl. offsets). Bring a single medium hook, but you could possibly use a beak instead on the 1-2 hook placements on the route.

Clean Rack: bring two wide cam hooks (narrow may work as well) and as many beaks as you've got (at minimum, bring doubles in all sizes, but ideally several more). Offset cams, ideally doubles in the smaller sizes. Totems (especially black to yellow) were great for the strange shallow scars on the upper pitches. Ballnuts.

Nailing Rack: bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and 1-2 beaks in sizes small, medium, and large.

Photos