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Cosmos
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A4- PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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Cosmos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4- PG13 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Horse Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 PG13 |
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Son Of Heart T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 26 pitches, Grade VI |
| GPS: | 37.73051, -119.63828 |
| FA: | Jim Dunn 1972 The 1st route established on El Cap by a solo climber! |
| Page Views: | 93 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | William Leventhal on Oct 21, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This fine route begins at La Escuela and takes the soaring cracks above and leftwards for close to 4 pitches before heading out on bolts, hooks and heads. There is a nice ledge at the top of pitch 6. Pitch 7 heads up a corner and then aids out left to a belay in a blank area. From here one pendulums out left to a nice A1 crack that is followed for 2 pitches to the spectacular "Window". Above lies relatively straightforward aid climbing for about 900', there are some dirty and grassy sections in this area. . There is a nice bivy ledge just below the 14th pitch belay that has some modern bolts. Gaining Thanksgiving Ledge is a loose and laborious pitch that goes way sideways. From here there are a couple of ways to top out. The original way is to keep traversing left on Thanksgiving Ledge to the West Buttress top out. A direct finish was added later and goes up new terrain directly above where the route joins Thanksgiving Ledge. I have not climbed this variation but it looked a bit dirty. See notes below on John Middendorf's notes regarding the direct finish. (it sounds terrible!) The West Buttress finish is easy and straightforward but hauling on it is difficult.
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