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> Southwest Face of El Cap
Freerider [Suggest Change]
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 20
votes
Routes in Southwest Face of El Cap
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Freerider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Salathe Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, 3300 ft, Grade VI |
| FA: | Huber Baum, 1998 |
| Page Views: | 99,476 total · 839/month |
| Shared By: | bheller on Sep 23, 2008 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15
Details
March 1- July 15
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Learn more about special status bird species in Yosemite National Park.
Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service's website does not recommend climbing there ";due to recent and ongoing rockfall."
Description [Suggest Change]
Freerider is the Astroman of the new millennium. This route is climbing at its finest. The route follows complex crack systems up the southwest face of El Capitan. Essentially it is the Salathe wall with a few variations used (pioneered by Alex Huber) to avoid the numerous 5.13 crux pitches first freed by Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in the mid 80's.
Location [Suggest Change]
Protection [Suggest Change]
One set micronuts and nuts. One purple metolius, doubles from blue metolius to #3 camalot (with 3 orange metolius/.5 BD), one #4 camalot, one #5 camalot, one #6 camalot, and one #6 friend. 23 alpine style draws.
Boulder, CO
Thanks in advance,
Scott
PS- Any beta on the "Scotty Burke" OW? I've seen the Monster and have an idea of what to expect (ughh...), is the SBOW harder? Nov 16, 2009
Morrison, CO
SL UT
The SBOW is harder than the monster in my opinion, but it is not as long and sustained. We found the trick was to lieback out of the crack for a section low on the route, and then try to swim back into it for the difficult slightly overhanging section of about 15 feet or so.
Best of Luck! Nov 23, 2009
One more question: how is the Round Table ledge as a bivy, comfy for two? Nov 30, 2009
...
Round table is a good hang, but i wouldn't want to bivy there for 2 folks. The block is big but really slopey.
Seems the preferred sending style is how my partner and I approached it. Rapped in with a few days of water/food and stashed at the alcove. Then climb in 1 day to the alcove. Next day climb through the crux and fix back to the alcove with 1 60m and 1 70m rope. Then jug and fire to the summit. That final day is like doing the Uwall to Roman Chimneys in Squamish...burly day!
Finish off by rapping back down and getting your stuff back. It is almost entirely at least 2 bolt anchors and chains to rap the route now. Really straight forward and takes about 3-4 hours. Rapping the salathe headwall is wild! Clip in on the way down or bounce like mad! You can rap the freerider variation, but then you need to swing over to Sous Le Toit. Rapping the route, you can also stash food/water on the round table and the block for your last day.
Please please please pack up your trash and even take some more on your way down. My partner and I filled a stubby haul bag with other people's waste!
message me if you want a full beta spray down on tactics, I was given a ton of info before venturing out and it helped a ton.
We did the Teflon corner. Try it a few times, it was absolutely hopeless at first, but then it just clicked. Nov 24, 2012
Boulder, CO
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Sacramento, Ca
nationalgeographic.com/adve… Jun 3, 2017