Type: Trad, Aid, 2000 ft (606 m), 20 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz, June 1971
Page Views: 857 total · 32/month
Shared By: Cody H on Nov 1, 2022
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An interesting route on the west face of El Cap featuring excellent ledges (Timbuktu, Kahuna Kahuna) and moderate climbing.  However the climbing between the ledges is steep and slow, so most will want to bring a portaledge. Never Never land and Aquarian follow the same start for the first 9 pitches, then deviate at Timbuktu. These pitches involve lots of reachy bolt/rivet ladders.

Two easy pitches above Timbuktu then the route gets harder, steeper and grassy. The roof pitch is steep but good cams/offsets the whole way. Above that each pitch is steep, most are long (140+ ft) and all have hanging belays until you reach pitch 15. The grass and dirt in some of these pitches can be be difficult to deal with but as more people climb it hopefully it gets better? The climbing is extremely varied from small cracks to OW's sometimes on the same pitch...

Kahuna Kahuna is a plush bivy. It makes for an excellent last bivy. Have a relaxing morning before the final two pitches to Thanksgiving. Finish on West Buttress/Lurking Fear. Or Dihedral wall? No one cares there are no rules.

Location Suggest change

The start is located near the base of Lurking Fear. With haul bags it will take 45 min-1 hour to get there.

Follow the well defined climbers trail (it's El Cap after all) up hill till you reach a flat spot and the trail deadends. Leave your haul bags here, be very mindful of leaving food in your packs. It's 110m from the top of P2 to the ground with an intermediate anchor to haul from. Most parties do not haul the first two pitches.

The trail then descends through the bushes to the Lurking Fear fixed lines. Follow the fixed lines for ~200ft till you have to squeeze past a tree. At which point do the small mantle move with the help of the rope then take a hard right. The climb begins at the base of the corner system on the far right of the pedestal.

Protection Suggest change

Nuts -small (not micro) - medium/large

Black Alien x2

(3) Black Totem - #1 BD

(2) BD #2-#5

#6

Double set offset cams

Beaks 2 M, 2 L

Sawed angle for hand placing (7/16th works great)

Heads in case fixed ones rip

Goggles, not glasses...to keep the dirt out of your eyes...

Photos

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