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West Buttress
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A3
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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Cosmos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4- PG13 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V6-7 7A+ PG13 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Horse Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 PG13 |
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Son Of Heart T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2100 ft (636 m), 21 pitches, Grade VI |
| GPS: | 37.73051, -119.63828 |
| FA: | Layton Kor, Steve Roper 5/1963 (in April 1963 Kor and Eric Beck established fixed ropes to 700 feet). FFA 5.13c: Tommy Caldwell 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,991 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Lance Colley on Nov 23, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The West Buttress is a burly classic featuring many excellent pitches like the gold ribbon 5.8 layback, the Jungle Chimney, the steep headwall crack reminiscent of the Salathe headwall and finally the Grand Traverse to the comfort of the well-travelled Lurking Fear. May it not be forgotten the West Buttress was established in 1963 by Layton Kor and Steve Roper with pitons and mountain boots.
Pitch 3 is excellent featuring two proper pendulums and the only pitch that required hammering. We brought 3 small beaks and used all of them. This is a good intro to A3. Tagging the hammer down to the follower to clean worked fine.
The Jungle Chimney is the adventure crux of the route, let the monkey out for this one!!!
The Grand Traverse is epic and might be as hard to clean as to lead. The first two pitches of the traverse are rated A3 but we climbed them without a hammer and they did not feel too desperate. The 2nd pitch of the traverse will eat every tiny cam you have, there are only 2 lower out points on the 100’ pitch so you’ll be leaving all your gear behind, bring at least doubles in 000 to blue totem, including offsets. Consider tricams for these pitches.
Motel Zed is easily accessible from the 12th belay and usually open for reservations.
Finally Lurking Fear joins the West Buttress.
All belays are two bomber bolts, thank you to the efforts of those replacing these bolts!
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