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Routes in Southwest Face

Freerider T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+
Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3
Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+
Salathe Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 2900 ft, 31 pitches, Grade VI
FA: 1972 Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton
Page Views: 9,049 total · 184/month
Shared By: Mike Fogarty on Mar 5, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details


I had the pleasure of climbing this with Troy Johnson and Tracy Dorton in of all times, August 1984
This was as I was told an early ascent. We spent 4 nights on the wall. This route is longer and more sustained than the Shield. The route is in some deep flaring awkward corners with lots of left handed nailing as I recall. The Mushroom is a classic, fun climbing, deluxe bivey ledges and the most direct route through the Shield headwall, with no crowds.

First Ascent: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 05/72
VI, 5.10;A4 31 pitches
First free ascent, Tommy Caldwell & Jason Sjong
5:14 28 pitches


The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.Plan on a fun 5 days and bring lots of water.


See Topo Photo.
.50 tri cam for hole on old A-4 section to Chicken head ledge. this is a must.
1 ea Peckers (3 total)
2 ea Wire Rivet Hangers
2 ea Keyhole Rivet Hangers
6 Knifeblades
2 ea Angles 1/2", 5/8"
2 ea Sawed Angles 1/2"-1 1/2"
10 Black Diamond Lost Arrow Pitons (mostly #2 and #3)
2 ea Hooks (3 total)
2 Narrow Cam Hooks
1 Wide Cam Hook
1 set of Black Diamond Stoppers
1 set of DMM Peenuts
1-2 sets of Offset Brass Nuts
2-3 sets of Aliens
2 sets of Offset Aliens
3 ea of Black Diamond Camalots #0.75-3
1 ea Black Diamond Camalots #4-6
1 60m x 10.5 mm Lead Rope
1 60m x 8mm Static Rope
12 Black Diamond Oz Quickdraws
40 extra Lightweight Biners
12 Shoulder Length Slings



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