Type: Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 31 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 1972; FFA Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong May 2012
Page Views: 31,593 total · 256/month
Shared By: Mike Fogarty on Mar 5, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

I had the pleasure of climbing this with Troy Johnson and Tracy Dorton in of all times, August 1984
This was as I was told an early ascent. We spent 4 nights on the wall. This route is longer and more sustained than the Shield. The route is in some deep flaring awkward corners with lots of left handed nailing as I recall. The Mushroom is a classic, fun climbing, deluxe bivey ledges and the most direct route through the Shield headwall, with no crowds.

First Ascent: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 05/72
VI, 5.10;A4 31 pitches
First free ascent, Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong
5:14 28 pitches

Location Suggest change

The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.Plan on a fun 5 days and bring lots of water.

Protection Suggest change

See Topo Photo.
Gear:
.50 tri cam for hole on old A-4 section to Chicken head ledge. this is a must.
1 ea Peckers (3 total)
2 ea Wire Rivet Hangers
2 ea Keyhole Rivet Hangers
6 Knifeblades
2 ea Angles 1/2", 5/8"
2 ea Sawed Angles 1/2"-1 1/2"
10 Black Diamond Lost Arrow Pitons (mostly #2 and #3)
2 ea Hooks (3 total)
2 Narrow Cam Hooks
1 Wide Cam Hook
1 set of Black Diamond Stoppers
1 set of DMM Peenuts
1-2 sets of Offset Brass Nuts
2-3 sets of Aliens
2 sets of Offset Aliens
3 ea of Black Diamond Camalots #0.75-3
1 ea Black Diamond Camalots #4-6
1 60m x 10.5 mm Lead Rope
1 60m x 8mm Static Rope
12 Black Diamond Oz Quickdraws
40 extra Lightweight Biners
12 Shoulder Length Slings

Photos

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