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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
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> B. El Capitan
> 2. Southwest Face
Magic Mushroom
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British A3
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Horse Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 31 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 1972; FFA Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong May 2012 |
| Page Views: | 32,474 total · 240/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Fogarty on Mar 5, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
I had the pleasure of climbing this with Troy Johnson and Tracy Dorton in of all times, August 1984
This was as I was told an early ascent. We spent 4 nights on the wall. This route is longer and more sustained than the Shield. The route is in some deep flaring awkward corners with lots of left handed nailing as I recall. The Mushroom is a classic, fun climbing, deluxe bivey ledges and the most direct route through the Shield headwall, with no crowds.
First Ascent: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 05/72
VI, 5.10;A4 31 pitches
First free ascent, Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong
5:14 28 pitches
This was as I was told an early ascent. We spent 4 nights on the wall. This route is longer and more sustained than the Shield. The route is in some deep flaring awkward corners with lots of left handed nailing as I recall. The Mushroom is a classic, fun climbing, deluxe bivey ledges and the most direct route through the Shield headwall, with no crowds.
First Ascent: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 05/72
VI, 5.10;A4 31 pitches
First free ascent, Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong
5:14 28 pitches
Location
The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.Plan on a fun 5 days and bring lots of water.
Protection
See Topo Photo.
Gear:
.50 tri cam for hole on old A-4 section to Chicken head ledge. this is a must.
1 ea Peckers (3 total)
2 ea Wire Rivet Hangers
2 ea Keyhole Rivet Hangers
6 Knifeblades
2 ea Angles 1/2", 5/8"
2 ea Sawed Angles 1/2"-1 1/2"
10 Black Diamond Lost Arrow Pitons (mostly #2 and #3)
2 ea Hooks (3 total)
2 Narrow Cam Hooks
1 Wide Cam Hook
1 set of Black Diamond Stoppers
1 set of DMM Peenuts
1-2 sets of Offset Brass Nuts
2-3 sets of Aliens
2 sets of Offset Aliens
3 ea of Black Diamond Camalots #0.75-3
1 ea Black Diamond Camalots #4-6
1 60m x 10.5 mm Lead Rope
1 60m x 8mm Static Rope
12 Black Diamond Oz Quickdraws
40 extra Lightweight Biners
12 Shoulder Length Slings
Gear:
.50 tri cam for hole on old A-4 section to Chicken head ledge. this is a must.
1 ea Peckers (3 total)
2 ea Wire Rivet Hangers
2 ea Keyhole Rivet Hangers
6 Knifeblades
2 ea Angles 1/2", 5/8"
2 ea Sawed Angles 1/2"-1 1/2"
10 Black Diamond Lost Arrow Pitons (mostly #2 and #3)
2 ea Hooks (3 total)
2 Narrow Cam Hooks
1 Wide Cam Hook
1 set of Black Diamond Stoppers
1 set of DMM Peenuts
1-2 sets of Offset Brass Nuts
2-3 sets of Aliens
2 sets of Offset Aliens
3 ea of Black Diamond Camalots #0.75-3
1 ea Black Diamond Camalots #4-6
1 60m x 10.5 mm Lead Rope
1 60m x 8mm Static Rope
12 Black Diamond Oz Quickdraws
40 extra Lightweight Biners
12 Shoulder Length Slings
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